HISTORIC ZION CABINS RENOVATED AND REOPENED

BOOKS:

ZION PARK LODGE AND CABINS
The "great lodge" at Zion National Park was designed by my favorite architect of the era,  Gilbert Stanley Underwood, whose work graces many of the national parks. Sad to say this lodge burned to the ground in 1966. The new facility was rebuilt by the Union Pacific Railway in 108 days. Not what Mr. Underwood had in mind, but by then he was deceased. What remained of his work at the park were the cabins that surround the lodge along with numerous other structures including the dormitories and what is now the Nature Center. The good news is that in 1992 the 108-day version of the lodge with the dining facilities was spruced up and redone to be more in keeping with the original concept with exterior sandstone pillars and balcony. And it looks pretty good. But the really good news is the recent renovation of 40 historic Western Cabins. I'm dying to get there and see what's been done! In 1997 these same cabins (then called Deluxe Cabins) were restored to a point by first removing acoustic paneled ceilings exposing the rafters and vaulted ceilings, repainting, in addition to some structural work. 
The latest undertaking by Archdeacon Designs looks like a successful effort to bring back the charm and detail of the 1927 cabins. The old carpeting was ripped out, original fir flooring refinished and custom-designed replica furniture by Old Hickory Furniture Company based upon an original dresser using oak and wicker replaces the standard motel-variety national park decor. Yippee!!!! Draperies and custom-made blankets to replicate the original Indian designs and lighting fixtures either replicate or complement the originals.

OK, so all of the charm is back, but with a few updates including ceiling fans, air conditioners, water heaters, desks with built-in power outlets and beds with "triple-sheeting, 300-count cotton." And the project was sort of green to boot. The only negative for me personally will be the July installation of television sets. Please. Oh, well, just don't turn the things on. Take a hike instead.
Unlike many lodges at national parks, Zion Lodge is open year round. There are 81 rooms (also spruced up)  40 cabins, a restaurant, cafe and gift shop.
The cabins are on the National Register of Historic Places and in the Zion Lodge Historic District that includes 19 buildings. (See TIPS below for details.) The park has had an uneven history on preservation. In 1976 the swimming pool and Underwood's bath houses were dismantled, and in 1984 the Standard Cabins were auctioned off and can be seen scattered around the state serving as summer cabins or storage sheds. I babble about the buildings (obviously the landscape is breathtaking), but if you're interested in national park rustic architecture take a self-guided tour of the structures that include Gilbert Stanley Underwood buildings (he worked on Zion park buildings for over 15 years), NPS architects' designs and numerous CCC constructed structures, bridges and pathways. Note that these rustic building are not the log-type construction found at some other parks, rather frame structures that rely on extensive use of stone work detailing or some buildings with smooth faced sandstone facades to blend the man made structures with the amazing towering cliffs of the park.
Anyone who goes to Zion before I do, let me know if the Western Cabin renovation is as good as it seems to be.
For reservations and information for Zion Park Lodge go to www.zionlodge.com or call 1-303-297-2757.


BEYOND ZION TO BRYCE AND NORTH RIM OF GRAND CANYON
If you travel to Zion, make sure to continue to Bryce Canyon NP and then the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Each facility features Underwood designed buildings. The construction of Zion Park Lodge and Cabins was the first lodge in a five-million-dollar plan the Union Pacific mapped out in 1922, under the direction of Stephen Mather (first director of the National Park Service), for Cedar Breaks, Zion, Bryce and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in what became the "Loop Tour." The 1928 Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim was probably Underwood's most spectacular great lodge after The Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National Park, California. Tragically, it burned in 1936. The new lodge was constructed on the same hanging-on-the-edge of the canyon footprint with a different roofline. Mr. Underwood was not consulted on the design. (And he was very much alive.) It still remains a magnificent building. Bryce Canyon Lodge was inspired by not only NPS rustic "parkitecture" but the Arts and Crafts movement. More on Bryce Canyon Lodge later.


MY TIPS ON ZION PARK LODGE:

• Go off season not so much to miss the crowds, but to get a totally different impression of the park.
• Check out the NPS website for the park. There are some road closures that do not impact getting to the lodge, but best to be aware before you head out: http://www.nps.gov/zion/parkmgmt/upload/Zion%20Construction%20Information%20Final%202.pdf
• Reserve a Western Cabin. That's obvious by my post, but stay in the park if possible even in the newer motel units that were tastefully built to match the other buildings. There are no rooms in the lodge itself.
• If you are interested in other historic buildings, The Zion Lodge Historic District includes the Mattress Shed (1), Womens Dormitory (1), Bake Shop (1), Mens Dormitory (1) Deluxe Quadraplex Western Cabins (5) and Deluxe Duplex Western Cabins (10). There are dozens of other historic buildings and structures in the park, outside of the district. Underwood's Zion Nature Center and 1941 Greek Revival Ranger Dormitory; the 1924 Grotto residence, 1928 & 1932 Pine Creek residence and Ranger Residence (East entrance) are a sampling of historic buildings. The Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel is a story in itself. Harvey Kaiser's The National Park Architecture Sourcebook  has a chapter on Zion. It might be helpful in finding the individual buildings. Unfortunately, the Park Service does not have a handbook on the historic district.

BOOKS:
For more history on these Great Lodges (Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon among them) and the Loop Tour, purchase Great Lodges of the National Parks  (2002 edition). 




RECENT ARTICLES I'VE WRITTEN:
I wrote a couple of magazine pieces recently: A cover piece for Northwest Travel March/April 2010 edition featuring a road trip of the Pacific NW visiting 6 Grand Lodges and another for Style 1900 on America's Ten Best Craftsman Era Park Lodges. Check them out and thanks for following my blog.

Yellowstone's Great Lodges

OLD FAITHFUL INN

There is a sense of frenzy at Yellowstone National Park. Each year three million visitors, high on the anticipation of encountering bison, bear, elk, moose, coyote and wolves, visit America’s first national park. The wildlife roam 2.2 million acres of mountainous, deeply gorged, fire-scarred, geyser-studded landscape interspersed with gentle meadows and meandering rivers.The lodge options are varied, in different parts of the park, and each stunning in its own way. Old Faithful Inn (1904) is almost as well known as the geyser it is named after. Designed by Robert Reamer, whose touch is seen throughout the park, it is a National Historic Landmark and not to be missed stop to the Upper Geyser Basin.
With rooms in the "old house," two annexes, and cabins there are plenty of options. For those who seek authenticity, go for the "old house" where some rooms share a shower/bathroom with others; there are sinks in each room. (Think college dorm but old.) These rooms are also the cheapest at the Inn. Both annexes have been beautifully remodeled with new bathrooms, furniture, etc.. There are also cabins, but I'd stay in the Inn. Remember, these historic lodges are not about your guest room. When built, travelers of the era wanted to gather in grand public spaces and dining rooms not hide away in their rooms with spa baths.
The great hall is one of those awe-inspriing places that captivates you as soon as you step through the big red doors. Tiny windows catch the light and it dances about the great hall making sunspots on the hardwood floor. Look up: it's like being in a wooden circus tent! Much of the original furniture is intact, and the gnarled lodgepole pine details posts and beams make this such a treasure. The fire is usually burning, the gigantic clock ticking and activity abounds. Old Faithful Inn was nearly lost in the catastrophic fires of 1988, but the park has come back in all of it glory, and Old Faithful Inn remains what many see as the first and finest great lodge in a national park.

MY  TIPS FOR OLD FAITHFUL INN:

• Check in and make sure your dinner reservation is set. (It's best to book these when you make your room reservation.) 
• If you haven't seen Old Faithful do its thing yet, climb the stairway to the upper mezzanine and head for the terrace over the porte cochere. This is THE best vantage point from which to watch the fun.
• Get up early, go get a cup of coffee at the mezzanine espresso bar, take it out over the terrace and watch Old Faithful blow in near solitude. (You can't see this too many times.)
• Do not miss the docent tour of the Inn.
• Bring ear plugs and a flashlight, particularly if you are staying in the "old house."
• The Inn is closed in the winter, Old Faithful Snow Lodge is open year round. If you're not interested in staying at a historic lodge, Snow Lodge (right next door) is a good alternative.
• Read more about the history and architecture of Old Faithful Inn in Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002 edition). A bonus: fabulous color photography and historic black and white images, too.

 LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL                                                                              

Lake Hotel is as elegant as Old Faithful Inn is rustic. Funny thing is, Robert Reamer is responsible for both done within a few years of each other. Reamer began transforming the original, plain-Jane 1889 hotel beginning in 1903 changing the exterior from bland to beautiful. And while there is a frenzy of activity at Old Faithful, Lake Hotel emotes a sort of calm. Instead of the hourly blast of a geyser, there is the lapping waters along the shore of Yellowstone Lake, the largest high elevation lake in North America. This could be my favorite lodge location within the park. We were there in June (after Grand Teton National Park), and the wildlife sightings were amazing including a grey wolf and a black bear with her cubs. People are so intent on seeing wildlife, that the rangers call the traffic jams, bear jams.
Back to the hotel: the interior was remodeled in the 1980s and plans are afoot for another go over. The guest rooms are a bit tired, but the dining room and huge solarium (a pianist plays each evening) are lovely and sparkling clean. Reamer also changed most of the interior to match the Colonial Revival exterior, but an Arts & Crafts-inspired fireplace and seating area on the first floor feature matte glazed Batchelder tiles and Leimert furniture.
 It's easy to get a bit lost finding your room, since there were various additions and airy lounges suddenly appear where the building was expanded. There are charming cottages behind the hotel, and I would try to nab one.

MY TIPS FOR LAKE HOTEL:

• As with Old Faithful, make your dinner reservations when you make your room reservations. Try the cafeteria at Lake Lodge down the road for a change of pace.
• Ask for a lake view room or stay in one of the darling cottages.
• There's a small snack room: note the original wicker furniture.
• Take a tour in one of the White Motor Company Yellowstone buses.
• Go out on the lake via tour or boat rental.
• This is a great base to see the east central section of the park. Fishing bridge and Yellowstone River and the Lower Fall of the Grand Canyon are close by.

OTHER LODGE OPTIONS I HAVE TRIED:

Lake Lodge and Cabins is a fantastic rustic lodge (also designed by Reamer) down the road from Lake Hotel. You get the best lake view from their dining room. The great hall is inviting and a typically rustic, wild western affair. There are historic Pioneer cabins and newer Western cabins. Room configuration varies from doubles, triples and quads. I like the restored (only some) Pioneer cabins. These are a good value.
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins compound is five miles from the north Gardiner entrance to the park. This is where the original Army Post was and many of those buildings still stand. The four-story hotel is an odd configuration, but the rooms are spacious and comfortable although the hallways are very dark. The dining room and snack bar are in a separate building. The geology around the hotel is amazing (as are the old fort buildings), but a stay here is for folks who are spending a good amount of time at the park. I have not stayed at the cabins.

The two exterior photos are copyright by Fred Pflughoft and published in Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002).

TRAVEL PACKAGES:

I love to plan my own trips, but many people don't have the time or interest. That means you are in luck. Xanterra Parks & Resorts has put together a bunch of packages that take the trip planning out of the pleasure of seeing America's first national park. Check out my YELLOWSTONE TRAVEL PACKAGE POST.

YELLOWSTONE TRAVEL PACKAGES ANNOUNCED

XANTERRA'S SUMMER SPECIALS ANNOUNCED

I find that half the fun of a national park trip is in the planning, but many travelers don't agree. And for me the adventure is seeing if my plan worked! There are lots of national park service programs at Yellowstone that are free, and if you want to do that, check out the NPS website, http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm where you can download a 2010 Trip Planner or click on your interest (hiking, fishing, etc..)

But if you want the planning done, the following may fill the bill. 

My disclaimer: I have not taken these tours, but I am familiar with the activities and locations. Make sure to ask how many will be in the tour with you, or if they can be done for just your group. This is a massive park (2.2 million acres), so tours would help with the logistics.

So, here you go:

Yellowstone concessioner Xanterra Parks & Resorts will offer a series of 11 multi-day vacation packages this summer. All packages include between four and six nights of lodging, in-park transportation, a variety of adventures and activities and a driver/guide. Several of the adventures include three meals a day for each person, and the remaining adventures include breakfast and lunch each day plus dinner one evening.

The lineup includes three Summer Adventure Packages, four- or five-night vacations featuring driver/guides from Xanterra. The driver/guides have completed intensive training and share extensive information and stories about the park’s colorful human history, geology and wildlife with program participants. The guides enhance the visitor experience as they provide interpretive information as they drive through the park. Guides also help with other logistics to ensure the comfort of all participants.

One of the three all-inclusive Summer Adventure packages is the Total Yellowstone Package. This five-night vacation includes lodging at three different hotels; breakfast, lunch and dinner each day; in-park transportation; Scenic cruise on Yellowstone Lake; choice of a horseback or stagecoach ride; and daily baggage handling. Each day of the vacation has a different theme. For example, the first day is “Great Geysers.” Participants walk the Upper Geyser Basin, take a walking tour of the Old Faithful Inn and explore the area. Another day is “Critters and Cowboys.” Guests participate in a morning wildlife watching excursion to Lamar Valley, known as the American Serengeti because of the abundance of wildlife. During the afternoon guests participate in their Western activity of choice at Roosevelt Lodge. For the complete Check out the Yellowstone Adventure Package itinerary. The Total Yellowstone package is priced at $1,139 per person double occupancy and $1,576 per person single occupancy.  The rate does not include taxes, gratuities or utility fee.

The Classic Yellowstone Adventure Package is also a good choice for travelers who want to pack a lot into their vacation. This five-day, four-night itinerary includes many of the park’s classic experiences such as wildlife watching in Lamar Valley; the Roosevelt Cookout, a family-pleasing Western adventure with fun transportation, food and entertainment; a scenic cruise of Yellowstone Lake; and a guided walking tour of the Upper Geyser Basin. The package also includes breakfast, lunch and dinner each day; accommodations in four different park lodges; all baggage handling; and a driver/guide with extensive knowledge of the human history, geology and wildlife of the park. The Classic Yellowstone Summer Adventure package is priced at $1,199 per person double occupancy and $1,513 per person single occupancy. Taxes, utility fees and gratuities are not included.


For more information about in park accommodations, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone visit www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges or call toll-free (1) 866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375) or (1) 307-344-7311.

YELLOWSTONE ASSOCIATION INSTITUTE: In addition to Summer Adventure Packages Xanterra also offers eight Lodging Camp Learning programs. Offered in partnership with the non-profit Yellowstone Association Institute (YAI), these programs include lodging, in-park transportation, all breakfasts and lunches, one dinner per person and expert instruction provided by a Yellowstone Association Institute naturalist guide. Xanterra and YAI have created Lodging Camp Learning programs for groups with specific interests. Programs include “Yellowstone for Families,” “Trails through Yellowstone,” “Old Times on the Grand Tour” and “Spring Wolf and Bear Discovery.” 


In addition, the YAI has other summer programs. Their new facility (pictured) just outside of Gardiner offers a base for families and groups on Yellowstone vacations.


 At this point in the year lodging in Yellowstone can be hard to find because most facilities are already booked for the summer season. However because they’re new, the Institute’s educational packages still have dates available at rates starting at $90 per person per day.  

Summer and fall packages available now include:

Yellowstone Sampler: Spend four days seeing the best of Yellowstone. Learn about Yellowstone’s colorful history, abundant wildlife, and active volcano while visiting most of the major park highlights including Mammoth Hot Springs, Lamar Valley, Old Faithful, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. One flat package rate includes 3 days of activities and 5 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,485, 6-12 people $3,950, 13-24 people $7,900.

Wildlife Adventure: Learn about Yellowstone’s bears, wolves, and other animals during driving tours and short hikes in various wildlife hotspots. Locate and observe animals using high-power scopes, and understand their behavior, ecology, and management. Take advantage of seasonal wildlife watching opportunities from baby bison in the spring to bugling elk in the fall. One flat package rate includes 3 days of wildlife watching and 4 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,285, 6-12 people $3,550, 13-24 people $7,100.

Happy Trails: Venture off the beaten path with interpretive hikes throughout the park designed to showcase the best of Yellowstone’s backcountry. Hikers can learn about wolves, bears, elk and more, get up close and personal with the supervolcano, and be a part of the park’s colorful history on carefully chosen hikes in the northern range, Old Faithful, and Mammoth Hot Springs areas. One flat package rate includes 3 days hiking and 5 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,485, 6-12 people $3,950, 13-24 people $7,900.

For more information, see package information on their website  Yellowstone Association Institute Private Tours.

Contact information for YAI:

Angela Stewart 406-848-2400 or registrar@yellowstoneassociation.org.

For more information about in park accommodations, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone visit www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges or call toll-free (1) 866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375) or (1) 307-344-7311.


From the Lodge Lady:
To read and see more about these national park lodges, check out my post Yellowstone's Great Lodges and Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002) for Old Faithful Inn and Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two for Lake Yellowstone Hotel

Jackson Lake Lodge, Grand Teton's grandest

We arrived at Jackson Lake Lodge on a perfect Wyoming day, and pulled under the portico. I jumped out and entered the lower level lobby. Nice. Tasteful, but no wow!  factor. A little patience was needed. I checked in, then too impatient to wait for the publicist to accompany me, I walked up the stairway. Wham! To say that the massive windows frame one of the nature's most expansive canvases is an understatement.  I literally gasped, and I am not alone.
For some, the Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed International style, concrete and glass structure doesn't fit the "lodge" criteria.

Set on a bluff back from the edge of Jackson Lake, it is a 1950s interpretation of the national park lodge that only Underwood and JD Rockefeller, Jr. (who paid for it as a "gift" to the American people) could have come up with. And it works on many levels. This is not about the building as is the case with Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone) or even The Ahwahee (Yosemite); it is about capturing the view. And it has always been that way.
The lodge features more than the grand hall. There are two restaurants, the lovely and fairly expensive Mural Room (and yes, there are exquisite murals along with the views) and the fun and funky Pioneer Grill where families can be more than comfortable, well fed and have lots of fun.
There is a huge conference center attached that most visitors won't even notice along with the Blue Heron cocktail lounge that was added in 1989. Two balconies above the grand hall are great vantage points to check out the lower hall and, of course, the view. Step outside, and a terrace runs the expanse of the lodge. Park rangers are on hand as guests check out the wildlife lurking just yards away. A quick hike up Lunch Tree Hill (where the whole idea of park expansion and the lodge was hatched with the Rockefellers), and you have the lodge in a nutshell.
There are rooms in the lodge, but the motor court units will spark memories of childhood park visits by any Baby Boomer lucky enough to have taken car trips in the family station wagon. Each unit has a little porch with Adirondack chairs. There's a pool, a corral where you can set up chuck wagon outings or horseback treks. And then there is the park. Need I say more?

My Tips:

• Stay in the lodge's one story motor court rooms (try to get one closest to the main lodge) unless you want something fancier; then stay in the lodge itself.
• Pop for at least one dinner in the Mural Dining Room then try Pioneer Grill. There are other restaurants in the park and in Moose and Jackson Hole.
• The chuck wagon breakfast is great for kids.
• Remember that there are wild animals...I mean, don't be foolish. I still see people running up to bears (honest!). You will see the most incredible array of wildlife especially if you're there in June when lots of baby animals abound. 
• If you can, take the guided tour about lodge art and murals.
• I'm not a big fan of gift shops, but this one has some lovely items.
• Combine your Grand Teton trip with Yellowstone National Park. The drive alone is worth it...and then there is Yellowstone!
• Learn more about the Jackson Lake Lodge history, Mission 66 plus fabulous photography in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two.  Dignitaries visited many of our great lodges, but this was the site of the 1989 historic US-Soviet talks (check out the table at the top of the stairway); JFK visited two months prior to his assassination.
• There are lots of housing options at Grand Teton NP. The cheapest cabins (both tent and historic log) in the park are at Colter Bay Village. I was just talking with Kay Scott, author of The Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges, and she suggests Dornan's Spur Ranch Cabins, a complex of 12 modern log cabins near the south entrance of the park... she says they're especially nice for grandparents with grandkids. On the other end of the price spectrum is Jenny Lake Lodge. More on that in a new book????? But for me, it's Jackson Lake Lodge.
• Visit the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center not only to get park information, but to see the award-winning architecture of the building.

This copyright photo was taken by David M.Morris and appears in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two

Glacier Bay, Alaska...cruise or lodge stay? That is the question.

The Park Service folks say that over 90% of the people who visit Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve never set foot on land...or ice. Most visitors arrive via cruise liners with a thousand "friends" with whom to share the experience. The modern day commercial cruises took off in 1968, but steamships like the Queen plied the icy water since around 1885. John Muir was the regions biggest PR agent writing eloquently about the astounding beauty of this glacial landscape. If you love cruising, by all means that's the way to go, but for my money, I'd take one of the once daily flights from Anchorage to Gustavas, catch a shuttle to Glacier Bay Lodge and make that your base for an amazing stay. There's an early reservation special going on now from the lodge website.

The lodge was built in 1966 and just about nothing has changed. It is the only federally financed NP lodge in the system, and since there are no roads into the park, it is secluded and a real blast from the past. Staff lovingly refer to it as the Brady Bunch Lodge. The main lodge has a lobby, dining room, gift shop and interpretive center upstairs. The deck is the gathering spot for evening cocktails and meals. Fresh fish is pulled from the dock. Rooms are in detached one-story units that are tucked into the wooded hillside. Black bears roam about.

Small boats (75 passengers) make full day trips back into the waters where you are treated to an astounding display of birds, sea life and plenty of mountain goats, moose, bears and even wolves. Alaskan "Grizzly" bears are called brown or Kodiaks. You are so close you want to hold you breath as they pace the shoreline. A park ranger and the captain give a running commentary on where and what to look at. Add to that, gigantic glaciers "calving," and even the biggest cynic is bowled over by the power of the place.

We were there in August, and in addition to the four-legged mammals, sea lions, puffins and guillemots, we took an evening dinner cruise that put us in the middle of a whale feeding frenzy. There were humpback and minke whales, and plenty of Orca also going for chow. Eating our lovely salmon dinner was almost a chore that took us away from the railing.

As Bill Brown, a retired park historian put it: "...you know you're in the presence of glory."

MY TIPS:

• Reserve NOW and get a 25% discount starting at $149 a night. http://www.visitglacierbay.com/specials/index.cfm
• I'd stay about 4 nights. You can walk into Gustavus and catch dinner at a pizza joint or have ice cream for a change. You can also pick up picnic fixings.
• Read Kim Heacox's book, The Only Kayak: A Journey into the Heart of Alaska before going or while you are there. Beautiful and chilling. Kim and his wife live in Gustavus. Kim was featured in both Great Lodges of the National Parks and Ken Burn's The National Parks, America's Best Idea PBS series.
• Attend any Park Service program, and listen attentively to all of the precautions they dole out about hiking in the region.
• Go on BOTH the day cruise and evening whale watching cruise.
• You can rent kayaks or go on your own. I would opt for the guided day trip with lunch.
• For more on Glacier Bay Lodge and Camp Denali, buy Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two . (These two beautiful shot were taken by Jerald L. Barnes who took all of the photos for the Alaskan lodges that appear in the book.)
• Take rain gear, waterproof shoes or boots, insect repellant (the strong stuff), layers including fleece, both a stocking hat and brimmed hat and light-weight gloves for the boat trips.
• They do have internet service at the lodge, but it is so annoying watching people on their laptops in the lounge. How weird it is to have people ohhh and ahhh over their digital photos instead of trekking out there to take more. Please, this is the wilderness!
• If you don't mind small planes, you can book a private flight that gives you better flexibility than the once a day commercial trip. Spectacular.

(These copyrighted photos were taken by Jerald L. Barnes and appear in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two.)

Camp Denali: wilderness with a touch of luxury

I think there are two not-to-be-missed parks in Alaska: Denali National Park and Preserve and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Most folks see Denali via the park service daily bus trip. It's good, and since private cars are not allowed deep into the park, it's the only option unless you hike in to see grandeur that is hard to grasp. Private plane trips over the park and even landings on glaciers give another heart stopping choice of viewing. But the hands-down best way to enjoy this park while still sleeping under a roof is a stay at Camp Denali or, for those who prefer a more traditional stay, North Face Lodge.

My stay at Camp Denali ranks as a highlight among research trips during the writing of Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two and scouting for the PBS television series. What could possibly be better than traveling 90 miles into the park on a bumpy dirt road following a wolf that decides to investigate a sleeping Grizzly bear, then stopping for a fabulous picnic lunch all the while getting a running commentary on this wilderness from Simon Hamm, the third operator of Camp and North Face? Not much.

By the time we got to "Camp" ---a group of log cabins dotting the ridge above Wonderlake, the historic centerpiece lodge, shower room and dining hall along with a spattering of other fabulous rustic buildings festooned with flower baskets---it was pouring rain. Camp employees met us with umbrellas and took each group and their gear to their assigned cabins. Ours had a queen and twin bed, wood-burning stove, propane lights and a kitchenette-type counter to wash up or fix snacks. No indoor water, toilet or shower, yet it was the most inviting cabin I'd visited in years. We built the fire, peered out the window at the spot where Mt. Denali should be looming, then unpacked. Guests congregate at the lodge before and after dinner to get to know each other. Beer and wine are shared (it's BYOB) along with a bit of chatter. Dinner is served family style, but Camp offers the kind of cuisine one would expect at a fine San Francisco restaurant, except larger portions. Both a meat and vegetarian entree are offered, and everyone introduces themselves that first night. Camaraderie is instant. Maybe because it's just you, the other guests and the staff (about one staff member for every two guests) out there where the bears and wolves roam.

We are talking remote, rough country where three fearless lovers of the Alaskan wilderness decided to build a lodge where people could experience the wonder of it all. Ginny and Morton Wood along with Celia Hunter began creating Camp in the early 1950s. Today it has expanded into one of the best wilderness resorts in the country.

Days are spent following naturalists on hikes, canoeing, fishing, even taking sightseeing flights. You can head out on your own or keep with the crew. The sun doesn't seem to ever set, so the days are full and long. Guests opt for three, four or seven night stays. A vacation to Camp Denali is an annual ritual for some, but for most it is a once in a lifetime experience.

I couldn't imagine anything improving Camp. Jenna and Simon Hamm (daughter and son-in-law of the second owners, Wally and Jerryne Cole) are constantly renovating, adding state-of-the-art solar and power supplies and organic gardens, but their plans for a new dining hall were on the drawing board. Now it is a reality.

Reports from Simon are that the old dining hall/kitchen came down in a day. The stunning new dining hall took considerably more time and effort to go up, but the spacious facility is a bonus to both guests and the kitchen staff known for creating fabulous meals.

Some openings for the 2010 season are still available. If you can't make it this season, start saving. It is worth it!

My Tips:

• Camp staff take all reservations on the phone, so they will find out your expectations and make recommendations. Just talk things over, and they'll do the rest.
• Try to stay as long as you can.
• Couple this with a visit to Glacier Bay if you have the time.

(This copyright photo was taken by Jerald L. Barnes as seen in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two)

CHECK OUT CAMP'S NEW BLOG http://www.campdenali.com/live/blog/blog/10559

Spring deals at National Park lodges: Olympic NP and Death Valley

Lake Crescent Lodge specials:

 Aramark has the new concession contract for Lake Crescent Lodge and they are offering its Grand Opening Special in conjunction with the season opening on May 7, 2010. From opening day to June 15, 2010, guests can book lodging for as low as $79 a night plus taxes and fees for a total savings of up to 27 percent.

For more information about lodging and activities at Lake Crescent Lodge, or to book the Grand Opening Special, please call (866) 297-7367 or visit www.olympicnationalparks.com. Promo code: OPENRATE.

The cheap rate special is for the main lodge room, charming small rooms with shared bathrooms (each room has a sink); there is a $129 rate for queen size rooms with views in some of the one-story motel-like units. Ask for the rooms facing the lake, although these motel units are my least favorite.

I always recommend staying at the main lodge if you don't mind sharing a bath; Singer Tavern units (queen, $192 plus tax or a two room cottage $222 plus tax); or the Roosevelt Fireplace Cottages with kitchen (booked at this time), but you can check for other dates. Always ask about other promotions when you make your reservation.

Bring your rain gear, but don't fret about the weather. This is paradise!

This photo was taken by David M.Morris and appears in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two

READ MY FEBRUARY POST ON LAKE CRESCENT LODGE.

Death Valley deals, too
 If you love the heat, this could be for you:

Furnace Creek Resort in Death Valley is offering its  summer season special on its year-round Stay and Play golf package with savings up to 16 percent now through May 8 and up to 38 percent off winter-season rates from May 9 through Oct. 7, 2010. 

The Stay and Play package at the Furnace Creek Resort includes accommodations for two people, one day of unlimited golf, club storage and electric cart rental for the first 18 holes. The per-night rate at the Ranch at Furnace Creek is $232 from April 19 through May 8 and the rate at the Inn at Furnace Creek is $387 per night. On May 9, the same day the Inn closes for the summer season, the Ranch drops package rates even more to $169 per night.

Note from the lodge lady: The Ranch is nice and a good alternative to the pricier Inn. It's ideal for family with a big pool. The golf course is on the dry side, but as the lowest elevation course in the US, it does have novel elements. (Why they have changed the names to Inn at Furnace Creek and Ranch at Furnace Creek is beyond me!) 


By the way, Furnace Creek Inn is one of the National Trust's Historic Hotels of America.  

READ MY MARCH POST ON FURNACE CREEK INN