Camp Denali: a gem in the tundra

Our intrepid crew on the porch of Camp Denali Lodge.

Four years had passed since I was at Camp Denali, 85 miles deep into Denali National Park, Alaska. That trip was research for my last book, Great Lodges of the National Parks, Vol. 2 and joining the PBS crew for the scout. This time it was all pleasure.
And pleasure just doesn't cover a stay at "camp."
"A wide place in the tundra where we offer hospitality," explained owner, Wally Cole back then. And hospitality still abounds. Wally and his wife Jerri's daughter, Jenna, and her husband, Simon Hamm, have taken over operations at camp, and if there was a hiccup in the transition, no one would notice.
Running a wilderness lodge in the, well, wilderness is no small undertaking. Nothing seems quite as wild as Alaska, so the warmth from a staff of 50, your own beautiful log cabin with full view of Mt. McKinley (Denali, the great one) and personal outhouse, pot belly stove, propane lights, fantastic food in the new Potlatch dining hall and friendship with strangers each evening in the original Lodge is wildly exciting. Even in the rain. Even in the snow. Even with our three grandchildren ages 10, 8 and 6. Actually, the grandchildren were the reason for the trip and our reward!
We arrived at the Denali train depot at 1 pm on August 8th to load onto a private bus headed to Camp Denali and its sister lodge, North Face Lodge. Stays are 3 or 4 days, and the turnaround for staff is quick and efficient. We, and our luggage, was chugging off in no time with our first wildlife sighting before we got comfortable. Everyone was on high animal alert, so we saw a lynx, brown bear, golden eagle, caribou and Dall Sheep. Our 6-year-old granddaughter spotted a bit of white in the distance and announced, "I see a sheep!" Everyone sort of wrote her off until Brian (driver and naturalist) saw it and confirmed her sighting. Arms up in the air, she announced, "I am woman." Cheers followed, and we were off.
Guests got a break for a huge late luncheon buffet, but this one was rather special. There had been a caribou kill earlier, so warning signs surrounded the picnic spot, and we were asked not to stray too far. Over smoked salmon, orzo salad and reindeer sausage, we watched a bear chew on caribou antlers while a wolf circled awaiting its turn.
Arrival at camp was late, so it's straight to Potlatch for desert and a quick reception and explanation of the next day's activities. We opted for the "moderate" hike from the choice of challenging, moderate and nature (small buses shuttle guests to various spots). When they say "moderate" at camp, you best be in shape.
We awoke to a drizzle. Big breakfast promptly at 7:30 am, hikers gathered at 9:30 and we were off.  The constant rain didn't dampen our grandkids enthusiasm for berry picking and tromping through the tundra. We crested Cranberry Ridge with our guide, Maria, learning more than we could ever retain. In a nutshell: The flora is tiny. Everything is miniature. And old. And resilient. Oh, and there are bears.
Back at Last Chance cabin (a charming 2-room affair with bunks for the kids), we warmed up and headed to the Lodge where our granddaughters brought their stash of blue berries. Before we knew it, Maria had the girls in the kitchen, and our 8-year-old appeared back at the Lodge with a tray of fresh blue berry smoothies.

Walking along the ridge line in the wilderness.

Dinner and breakfast are announced by the ringing of a big bell. The food here is fantastic, as beautifully prepared as a city restaurant. There is a set menu with a vegetarian option, good for us since we had one veggie in the group. (If you want beer or wine with your dinner, bring it in and they will serve you.)
Camp always has a resident guest speaker for those who can stay awake. Don't miss them if you can.
The second day we were up at 6:30, breakfast at 7:30, packing our lunch and onto the bus to take us to the trail head (there was no trail) for a five mile trek into the park's wilderness.
An hour later, we stepped out into heavy mist that would turn to rain that would turn to snow that would turn to sleet that would somehow all seem acceptable. Because we were traipsing through the tundra, scrambling up the scree, balancing along a caribou trail on a ridge line wondering why our grandchildren were unphased by the steepness and the challenge. Our guide, Katie, taught wilderness skills to kids in the winter, so when they all started "tundra rolling" down the spongy slopes, we went with it. No injuries and peals of laughter for 45 minutes. They jumped into huge holes dug by brown bears (yes, Grizzlies), saw more bear scat than I cared to count along with dozens of Arctic ground squirrels burros. Tiny flowers and plants and tufts of caribou hair were all for the discovering. Magical.

Denali caught in the alpenglow of early morning.
 Photo by Jerry Barnes

We awoke to sunshine! The mountain was "out" and it absolutely energized guests and staff. What a powerful picture: a 20,000 foot massive, totally white mountain that simply fills your imagination.
Our third day, we opted to go out on our own. My husband and 10 year-old grandson fished for Grayling (successfully) on Moose Creek; we all canoed on Wonder Lake; and more fishing with two new friends and their dad (again successfully) and lots of berry picking and walking. In a world of catch-and-release, it was fun for each boy to keep a fish, take it to the kitchen and have it served along with the planned fare.
It is always hard to say good bye to special places. Places that capture your heart. And you don't just leave camp, you are given what feels like a heart-felt good bye then take another journey riding along the dirt road, spotting brown bear, sheep, porcupine and caribou. You chat with your new acquaintances and share stories.
And, then you have to say good bye. Vowing to come back. Alone. Together. In your dreams or in you memories.

Denali by moonlight.
 Photo by Jerry Barnes

Tips on visiting Camp Denali:

• Work with the reservation staff. They can answer any questions you may have. The goal is for you to have the best experience possible.
• Camp Denali has a wonderful website, and they actually answer their phones and emails. Stays are pricey, but it is a totally unique experience. 
• Flight sightseeing is also available, and they will arrange it. A terrific experience.
• You don't need to pack a lot, but bring everything suggested. There is extra rain gear, packs (much better than the one I brought), boots and mosquito head nets for your use along with some gear you can purchase.
• Bring an extra pair of warm gloves and plenty of hiking socks.
• I brought extra gallon size ziplock bags. Very handy to keep things dry in your pack, or bring a pack cover.
• Good binoculars are a plus!
• Understand what is involved in each day's hike. "Challenging" hikes are just that, so be sure you are physically able to do the trek.
• The season is short. We were there in early August and it was "fall" weather (with snow flurries). The upside: few mosquitoes to speak of.
• The bus ride is long and fun on a narrow dirt road. If you are uneasy about heights, sit on the right going up and left going back.

Understand the following:

• You have your own spotless outhouse. (There are 4 flush toilets on the property for guests.)
• Heat is from a pot belly stove. You need to know how to build a fire.
• Lights are easy to use propane. Same with the hot plate for warming water.
• Water in most cabins is from an outdoor spigot.
• There is a bath house for women and one for men.
• Be prompt for meals.
• You pack your own lunches from a wonderful selection of goodies.
• BYOB
• You will be well cared for in the wilderness.

Camp Denali is a privately owned, family-run business, and it has been that way since it opened in 1952. Camp and North Face Lodge are "in holdings" within the national park. This makes your stay exceptionally special. That and the Coles', Hamms' and the entire staff's devotion to the wide place in the tundra and this wilderness they call home.

I'll post about our stay at Glacier Park Lodge later in the month! We're talking whales and more whales!

If you want to read about both lodges, they are the final two chapters in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Vol. 2.

Camp Denali: wilderness with a touch of luxury

I think there are two not-to-be-missed parks in Alaska: Denali National Park and Preserve and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Most folks see Denali via the park service daily bus trip. It's good, and since private cars are not allowed deep into the park, it's the only option unless you hike in to see grandeur that is hard to grasp. Private plane trips over the park and even landings on glaciers give another heart stopping choice of viewing. But the hands-down best way to enjoy this park while still sleeping under a roof is a stay at Camp Denali or, for those who prefer a more traditional stay, North Face Lodge.

My stay at Camp Denali ranks as a highlight among research trips during the writing of Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two and scouting for the PBS television series. What could possibly be better than traveling 90 miles into the park on a bumpy dirt road following a wolf that decides to investigate a sleeping Grizzly bear, then stopping for a fabulous picnic lunch all the while getting a running commentary on this wilderness from Simon Hamm, the third operator of Camp and North Face? Not much.

By the time we got to "Camp" ---a group of log cabins dotting the ridge above Wonderlake, the historic centerpiece lodge, shower room and dining hall along with a spattering of other fabulous rustic buildings festooned with flower baskets---it was pouring rain. Camp employees met us with umbrellas and took each group and their gear to their assigned cabins. Ours had a queen and twin bed, wood-burning stove, propane lights and a kitchenette-type counter to wash up or fix snacks. No indoor water, toilet or shower, yet it was the most inviting cabin I'd visited in years. We built the fire, peered out the window at the spot where Mt. Denali should be looming, then unpacked. Guests congregate at the lodge before and after dinner to get to know each other. Beer and wine are shared (it's BYOB) along with a bit of chatter. Dinner is served family style, but Camp offers the kind of cuisine one would expect at a fine San Francisco restaurant, except larger portions. Both a meat and vegetarian entree are offered, and everyone introduces themselves that first night. Camaraderie is instant. Maybe because it's just you, the other guests and the staff (about one staff member for every two guests) out there where the bears and wolves roam.

We are talking remote, rough country where three fearless lovers of the Alaskan wilderness decided to build a lodge where people could experience the wonder of it all. Ginny and Morton Wood along with Celia Hunter began creating Camp in the early 1950s. Today it has expanded into one of the best wilderness resorts in the country.

Days are spent following naturalists on hikes, canoeing, fishing, even taking sightseeing flights. You can head out on your own or keep with the crew. The sun doesn't seem to ever set, so the days are full and long. Guests opt for three, four or seven night stays. A vacation to Camp Denali is an annual ritual for some, but for most it is a once in a lifetime experience.

I couldn't imagine anything improving Camp. Jenna and Simon Hamm (daughter and son-in-law of the second owners, Wally and Jerryne Cole) are constantly renovating, adding state-of-the-art solar and power supplies and organic gardens, but their plans for a new dining hall were on the drawing board. Now it is a reality.

Reports from Simon are that the old dining hall/kitchen came down in a day. The stunning new dining hall took considerably more time and effort to go up, but the spacious facility is a bonus to both guests and the kitchen staff known for creating fabulous meals.

Some openings for the 2010 season are still available. If you can't make it this season, start saving. It is worth it!

My Tips:

• Camp staff take all reservations on the phone, so they will find out your expectations and make recommendations. Just talk things over, and they'll do the rest.
• Try to stay as long as you can.
• Couple this with a visit to Glacier Bay if you have the time.

(This copyright photo was taken by Jerald L. Barnes as seen in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two)

CHECK OUT CAMP'S NEW BLOG http://www.campdenali.com/live/blog/blog/10559