My stay at Camp Denali ranks as a highlight among research trips during the writing of Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two and scouting for the PBS television series. What could possibly be better than traveling 90 miles into the park on a bumpy dirt road following a wolf that decides to investigate a sleeping Grizzly bear, then stopping for a fabulous picnic lunch all the while getting a running commentary on this wilderness from Simon Hamm, the third operator of Camp and North Face? Not much.
By the time we got to "Camp" ---a group of log cabins dotting the ridge above Wonderlake, the historic centerpiece lodge, shower room and dining hall along with a spattering of other fabulous rustic buildings festooned with flower baskets---it was pouring rain. Camp employees met us with umbrellas and took each group and their gear to their assigned cabins. Ours had a queen and twin bed, wood-burning stove, propane lights and a kitchenette-type counter to wash up or fix snacks. No indoor water, toilet or shower, yet it was the most inviting cabin I'd visited in years. We built the fire, peered out the window at the spot where Mt. Denali should be looming, then unpacked. Guests congregate at the lodge before and after dinner to get to know each other. Beer and wine are shared (it's BYOB) along with a bit of chatter. Dinner is served family style, but Camp offers the kind of cuisine one would expect at a fine San Francisco restaurant, except larger portions. Both a meat and vegetarian entree are offered, and everyone introduces themselves that first night. Camaraderie is instant. Maybe because it's just you, the other guests and the staff (about one staff member for every two guests) out there where the bears and wolves roam.
We are talking remote, rough country where three fearless lovers of the Alaskan wilderness decided to build a lodge where people could experience the wonder of it all. Ginny and Morton Wood along with Celia Hunter began creating Camp in the early 1950s. Today it has expanded into one of the best wilderness resorts in the country.
Days are spent following naturalists on hikes, canoeing, fishing, even taking sightseeing flights. You can head out on your own or keep with the crew. The sun doesn't seem to ever set, so the days are full and long. Guests opt for three, four or seven night stays. A vacation to Camp Denali is an annual ritual for some, but for most it is a once in a lifetime experience.
I couldn't imagine anything improving Camp. Jenna and Simon Hamm (daughter and son-in-law of the second owners, Wally and Jerryne Cole) are constantly renovating, adding state-of-the-art solar and power supplies and organic gardens, but their plans for a new dining hall were on the drawing board. Now it is a reality.
Reports from Simon are that the old dining hall/kitchen came down in a day. The stunning new dining hall took considerably more time and effort to go up, but the spacious facility is a bonus to both guests and the kitchen staff known for creating fabulous meals.
Some openings for the 2010 season are still available. If you can't make it this season, start saving. It is worth it!
My Tips:
- Camp staff take all reservations on the phone, so they will find out your expectations and make recommendations. Just talk things over, and they'll do the rest.
- Try to stay as long as you can.
- Couple this with a visit to Glacier Bay if you have the time.
CHECK OUT CAMP'S NEW BLOG http://www.campdenali.com/live/blog/blog/10559
No comments:
Post a Comment