Jackson Lake Lodge, Grand Teton's grandest

We arrived at Jackson Lake Lodge on a perfect Wyoming day, and pulled under the portico. I jumped out and entered the lower level lobby. Nice. Tasteful, but no wow!  factor. A little patience was needed. I checked in, then too impatient to wait for the publicist to accompany me, I walked up the stairway. Wham! To say that the massive windows frame one of the nature's most expansive canvases is an understatement.  I literally gasped, and I am not alone.
For some, the Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed International style, concrete and glass structure doesn't fit the "lodge" criteria.

Set on a bluff back from the edge of Jackson Lake, it is a 1950s interpretation of the national park lodge that only Underwood and JD Rockefeller, Jr. (who paid for it as a "gift" to the American people) could have come up with. And it works on many levels. This is not about the building as is the case with Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone) or even The Ahwahee (Yosemite); it is about capturing the view. And it has always been that way.
The lodge features more than the grand hall. There are two restaurants, the lovely and fairly expensive Mural Room (and yes, there are exquisite murals along with the views) and the fun and funky Pioneer Grill where families can be more than comfortable, well fed and have lots of fun.
There is a huge conference center attached that most visitors won't even notice along with the Blue Heron cocktail lounge that was added in 1989. Two balconies above the grand hall are great vantage points to check out the lower hall and, of course, the view. Step outside, and a terrace runs the expanse of the lodge. Park rangers are on hand as guests check out the wildlife lurking just yards away. A quick hike up Lunch Tree Hill (where the whole idea of park expansion and the lodge was hatched with the Rockefellers), and you have the lodge in a nutshell.
There are rooms in the lodge, but the motor court units will spark memories of childhood park visits by any Baby Boomer lucky enough to have taken car trips in the family station wagon. Each unit has a little porch with Adirondack chairs. There's a pool, a corral where you can set up chuck wagon outings or horseback treks. And then there is the park. Need I say more?

My Tips:

• Stay in the lodge's one story motor court rooms (try to get one closest to the main lodge) unless you want something fancier; then stay in the lodge itself.
• Pop for at least one dinner in the Mural Dining Room then try Pioneer Grill. There are other restaurants in the park and in Moose and Jackson Hole.
• The chuck wagon breakfast is great for kids.
• Remember that there are wild animals...I mean, don't be foolish. I still see people running up to bears (honest!). You will see the most incredible array of wildlife especially if you're there in June when lots of baby animals abound. 
• If you can, take the guided tour about lodge art and murals.
• I'm not a big fan of gift shops, but this one has some lovely items.
• Combine your Grand Teton trip with Yellowstone National Park. The drive alone is worth it...and then there is Yellowstone!
• Learn more about the Jackson Lake Lodge history, Mission 66 plus fabulous photography in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two.  Dignitaries visited many of our great lodges, but this was the site of the 1989 historic US-Soviet talks (check out the table at the top of the stairway); JFK visited two months prior to his assassination.
• There are lots of housing options at Grand Teton NP. The cheapest cabins (both tent and historic log) in the park are at Colter Bay Village. I was just talking with Kay Scott, author of The Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges, and she suggests Dornan's Spur Ranch Cabins, a complex of 12 modern log cabins near the south entrance of the park... she says they're especially nice for grandparents with grandkids. On the other end of the price spectrum is Jenny Lake Lodge. More on that in a new book????? But for me, it's Jackson Lake Lodge.
• Visit the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center not only to get park information, but to see the award-winning architecture of the building.

This copyright photo was taken by David M.Morris and appears in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two

Glacier Bay, Alaska...cruise or lodge stay? That is the question.

The Park Service folks say that over 90% of the people who visit Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve never set foot on land...or ice. Most visitors arrive via cruise liners with a thousand "friends" with whom to share the experience. The modern day commercial cruises took off in 1968, but steamships like the Queen plied the icy water since around 1885. John Muir was the regions biggest PR agent writing eloquently about the astounding beauty of this glacial landscape. If you love cruising, by all means that's the way to go, but for my money, I'd take one of the once daily flights from Anchorage to Gustavas, catch a shuttle to Glacier Bay Lodge and make that your base for an amazing stay. There's an early reservation special going on now from the lodge website.

The lodge was built in 1966 and just about nothing has changed. It is the only federally financed NP lodge in the system, and since there are no roads into the park, it is secluded and a real blast from the past. Staff lovingly refer to it as the Brady Bunch Lodge. The main lodge has a lobby, dining room, gift shop and interpretive center upstairs. The deck is the gathering spot for evening cocktails and meals. Fresh fish is pulled from the dock. Rooms are in detached one-story units that are tucked into the wooded hillside. Black bears roam about.

Small boats (75 passengers) make full day trips back into the waters where you are treated to an astounding display of birds, sea life and plenty of mountain goats, moose, bears and even wolves. Alaskan "Grizzly" bears are called brown or Kodiaks. You are so close you want to hold you breath as they pace the shoreline. A park ranger and the captain give a running commentary on where and what to look at. Add to that, gigantic glaciers "calving," and even the biggest cynic is bowled over by the power of the place.

We were there in August, and in addition to the four-legged mammals, sea lions, puffins and guillemots, we took an evening dinner cruise that put us in the middle of a whale feeding frenzy. There were humpback and minke whales, and plenty of Orca also going for chow. Eating our lovely salmon dinner was almost a chore that took us away from the railing.

As Bill Brown, a retired park historian put it: "...you know you're in the presence of glory."

MY TIPS:

• Reserve NOW and get a 25% discount starting at $149 a night. http://www.visitglacierbay.com/specials/index.cfm
• I'd stay about 4 nights. You can walk into Gustavus and catch dinner at a pizza joint or have ice cream for a change. You can also pick up picnic fixings.
• Read Kim Heacox's book, The Only Kayak: A Journey into the Heart of Alaska before going or while you are there. Beautiful and chilling. Kim and his wife live in Gustavus. Kim was featured in both Great Lodges of the National Parks and Ken Burn's The National Parks, America's Best Idea PBS series.
• Attend any Park Service program, and listen attentively to all of the precautions they dole out about hiking in the region.
• Go on BOTH the day cruise and evening whale watching cruise.
• You can rent kayaks or go on your own. I would opt for the guided day trip with lunch.
• For more on Glacier Bay Lodge and Camp Denali, buy Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two . (These two beautiful shot were taken by Jerald L. Barnes who took all of the photos for the Alaskan lodges that appear in the book.)
• Take rain gear, waterproof shoes or boots, insect repellant (the strong stuff), layers including fleece, both a stocking hat and brimmed hat and light-weight gloves for the boat trips.
• They do have internet service at the lodge, but it is so annoying watching people on their laptops in the lounge. How weird it is to have people ohhh and ahhh over their digital photos instead of trekking out there to take more. Please, this is the wilderness!
• If you don't mind small planes, you can book a private flight that gives you better flexibility than the once a day commercial trip. Spectacular.

(These copyrighted photos were taken by Jerald L. Barnes and appear in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two.)

Camp Denali: wilderness with a touch of luxury

I think there are two not-to-be-missed parks in Alaska: Denali National Park and Preserve and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Most folks see Denali via the park service daily bus trip. It's good, and since private cars are not allowed deep into the park, it's the only option unless you hike in to see grandeur that is hard to grasp. Private plane trips over the park and even landings on glaciers give another heart stopping choice of viewing. But the hands-down best way to enjoy this park while still sleeping under a roof is a stay at Camp Denali or, for those who prefer a more traditional stay, North Face Lodge.

My stay at Camp Denali ranks as a highlight among research trips during the writing of Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two and scouting for the PBS television series. What could possibly be better than traveling 90 miles into the park on a bumpy dirt road following a wolf that decides to investigate a sleeping Grizzly bear, then stopping for a fabulous picnic lunch all the while getting a running commentary on this wilderness from Simon Hamm, the third operator of Camp and North Face? Not much.

By the time we got to "Camp" ---a group of log cabins dotting the ridge above Wonderlake, the historic centerpiece lodge, shower room and dining hall along with a spattering of other fabulous rustic buildings festooned with flower baskets---it was pouring rain. Camp employees met us with umbrellas and took each group and their gear to their assigned cabins. Ours had a queen and twin bed, wood-burning stove, propane lights and a kitchenette-type counter to wash up or fix snacks. No indoor water, toilet or shower, yet it was the most inviting cabin I'd visited in years. We built the fire, peered out the window at the spot where Mt. Denali should be looming, then unpacked. Guests congregate at the lodge before and after dinner to get to know each other. Beer and wine are shared (it's BYOB) along with a bit of chatter. Dinner is served family style, but Camp offers the kind of cuisine one would expect at a fine San Francisco restaurant, except larger portions. Both a meat and vegetarian entree are offered, and everyone introduces themselves that first night. Camaraderie is instant. Maybe because it's just you, the other guests and the staff (about one staff member for every two guests) out there where the bears and wolves roam.

We are talking remote, rough country where three fearless lovers of the Alaskan wilderness decided to build a lodge where people could experience the wonder of it all. Ginny and Morton Wood along with Celia Hunter began creating Camp in the early 1950s. Today it has expanded into one of the best wilderness resorts in the country.

Days are spent following naturalists on hikes, canoeing, fishing, even taking sightseeing flights. You can head out on your own or keep with the crew. The sun doesn't seem to ever set, so the days are full and long. Guests opt for three, four or seven night stays. A vacation to Camp Denali is an annual ritual for some, but for most it is a once in a lifetime experience.

I couldn't imagine anything improving Camp. Jenna and Simon Hamm (daughter and son-in-law of the second owners, Wally and Jerryne Cole) are constantly renovating, adding state-of-the-art solar and power supplies and organic gardens, but their plans for a new dining hall were on the drawing board. Now it is a reality.

Reports from Simon are that the old dining hall/kitchen came down in a day. The stunning new dining hall took considerably more time and effort to go up, but the spacious facility is a bonus to both guests and the kitchen staff known for creating fabulous meals.

Some openings for the 2010 season are still available. If you can't make it this season, start saving. It is worth it!

My Tips:

• Camp staff take all reservations on the phone, so they will find out your expectations and make recommendations. Just talk things over, and they'll do the rest.
• Try to stay as long as you can.
• Couple this with a visit to Glacier Bay if you have the time.

(This copyright photo was taken by Jerald L. Barnes as seen in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two)

CHECK OUT CAMP'S NEW BLOG http://www.campdenali.com/live/blog/blog/10559

Spring deals at National Park lodges: Olympic NP and Death Valley

Lake Crescent Lodge specials:

 Aramark has the new concession contract for Lake Crescent Lodge and they are offering its Grand Opening Special in conjunction with the season opening on May 7, 2010. From opening day to June 15, 2010, guests can book lodging for as low as $79 a night plus taxes and fees for a total savings of up to 27 percent.

For more information about lodging and activities at Lake Crescent Lodge, or to book the Grand Opening Special, please call (866) 297-7367 or visit www.olympicnationalparks.com. Promo code: OPENRATE.

The cheap rate special is for the main lodge room, charming small rooms with shared bathrooms (each room has a sink); there is a $129 rate for queen size rooms with views in some of the one-story motel-like units. Ask for the rooms facing the lake, although these motel units are my least favorite.

I always recommend staying at the main lodge if you don't mind sharing a bath; Singer Tavern units (queen, $192 plus tax or a two room cottage $222 plus tax); or the Roosevelt Fireplace Cottages with kitchen (booked at this time), but you can check for other dates. Always ask about other promotions when you make your reservation.

Bring your rain gear, but don't fret about the weather. This is paradise!

This photo was taken by David M.Morris and appears in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two

READ MY FEBRUARY POST ON LAKE CRESCENT LODGE.

Death Valley deals, too
 If you love the heat, this could be for you:

Furnace Creek Resort in Death Valley is offering its  summer season special on its year-round Stay and Play golf package with savings up to 16 percent now through May 8 and up to 38 percent off winter-season rates from May 9 through Oct. 7, 2010. 

The Stay and Play package at the Furnace Creek Resort includes accommodations for two people, one day of unlimited golf, club storage and electric cart rental for the first 18 holes. The per-night rate at the Ranch at Furnace Creek is $232 from April 19 through May 8 and the rate at the Inn at Furnace Creek is $387 per night. On May 9, the same day the Inn closes for the summer season, the Ranch drops package rates even more to $169 per night.

Note from the lodge lady: The Ranch is nice and a good alternative to the pricier Inn. It's ideal for family with a big pool. The golf course is on the dry side, but as the lowest elevation course in the US, it does have novel elements. (Why they have changed the names to Inn at Furnace Creek and Ranch at Furnace Creek is beyond me!) 


By the way, Furnace Creek Inn is one of the National Trust's Historic Hotels of America.  

READ MY MARCH POST ON FURNACE CREEK INN