Glacier Bay Lodge: Back to the '60s

Our flight from Juneau arrived at 8:30 pm just in time
 for dinner at Glacier Bay Lodge.

Some things never change, and Glacier Bay Lodge, on the edge of Bartlett Cove in Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, feels like one of them. Built in 1966, it is the only federally funded lodge in the national park system. Building it was no small trick, since everything for construction arrived by barge. There are no roads into Glacier Bay National Park. We are talking remote.
We arrived with our three grandchildren, ages 10, 8 and 6, after 13 1/2 hours of flying...and we only came from Oakland, California! We had a couple of long layovers, and caught the daily flight on Alaska Airlines from Juneau to Gustavus, a burg of about 300 hardy souls. The shuttle bus was there to take us to the lodge, where we checked into our room. Rooms have one double bed and one single: there were five of us. A large rollaway was soon in place, and as our 10-year-old grandson wrote in his journal: "It was a bit small, but it all worked out." And it did.

Swinging at Glacier Bay Lodge.

We hustled to get dinner before the dining room closed, and found the food as good as our last visit four years ago. At 10:30 pm, it was still bright outside, so we took a little walk and swung on the wooden swing below the lodge.
It was 7 am before we knew it, so it was on with the gear, breakfast and our all-day cruise. The Baranoff Wind is a comfortable day cruiser that shuttles guests through this water wonderland taking whichever route seems best for the day. On our last visit we went to the Margerie Glacier; this time it was to Johns Hopkins Inlet and Glacier that had been sealed off due to heavy ice until a few days before our arrival.

Johns Hopkins Glacier looms behind the inlet.

Think bobbing among icebergs. Each trip is different, but a ranger accompanies you, and everyone gets an eye-full of wildlife including hundreds of birds, grizzly bear, sheep, sea otters and whales. Ranger Emma was not only knowledgable, but great with our grandchildren. Two opted to become Junior Rangers, and the experience was fun for both girls.

The second day, it was rain, rain, and more rain, but that didn't stop my husband and grandson from their planned day of halibut and salmon fishing with Capt. Mike Halpert. How often can a boy catch is own bait then pull in a fish that weighs as much as he does? Pure joy!
We had seen a few whales as part of our Baranoff Wind tour, but our half day on The Taz was extraordinary whale watching. The 45 foot, 23-passenger craft is outfitted with a hydrophone system that gives guests an incredible opportunity to not only see whales, but to hear them. The mammoth humpback whales had a lot to say as they swam around us, under us then "bubble netted". The feeding technique involves a warm of whales that circle creating a bubble net around their herring prey. You can hear them chatting and see the surface bubble; then suddenly there is a loud call and in unison their mouths soar into the air, swallowing their catch in openings big enough to hold a VW bug. Humbling for humans to watch.
John Muir was humbled by Glacier Bay in 1879, and again, some things never seem to change. The massive ice that once filled the bay is gone; huge chunks of glacial history crash and fall, calving into the water; sea life abounds thrilling those who watch; multi-storied cruise ships slide through the wonderland and kayakers do the same. So, it has changed, and will continue to do so. But whoever experiences these  feats of nature continues to be humbled.
As Bill Brown, former NPS historian and author says: "It is a great cultural adventure. Whatever your discipline or your profession or your avocation, when you see Glacier Bay in all its magnificence, you know you're in the presence of glory."

Humpback whales "bubble netting" their catch at
Point Adolphus in Glacier Bay National Park's marine preserve.

Tips on visiting Glacier Bay Lodge:

• Rooms are along wooden walkways set along the water or tucked into the woods. If you have any mobility issues, make sure to let them know.
• The restaurant offers excellent food. The morning buffet is worth it, particularly for kids. 
• Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail on the deck.
• Go on both the all day Baranoff Wind trip and a separate whale watching morning or afternoon trip on The Taz. Lunch is served on the Baranoff but not The Taz.
• Go into town one evening if you want a change from the lodge. The Homeshore Cafe is VERY casual, but offers good pizza. Oh, and there is a museum in the filling station.
• Evening ranger programs are informative as is the Visitor Center on the second floor of the lodge. 
• There are easy, beautiful trails around the lodge. I have seen Black bears walking in front of the lodge, and there were Brown bear encounters with stream fishermen while we were there. All of these are posted, so simply be aware.
• You do not need to rent a car. There are virtually no roads. The lodge shuttle bus is on Alaska time, meaning check and double check on pick-ups particularly for the airport. We hauled our luggage onto The Taz to make sure it would be with us for our flight that left an hour after we disembarked from our cruise. It was a good call.
• The Taz, Glacier Bay Lodge and the Glacier Bay National Park websites are all helpful in planning your trip.

I like to read books on wherever I'm traveling, and I recommend Kim Heacox's The Only Kayak. There are signed copies at the visitor center bookstore or order it through this site and Amazon.com. Kim and his wife, Melanie, live in Gustavus, and among other things, he is an exquisite writer and storyteller. Lucky for me, we unexpectedly ran into them at dinner one night at the lodge.

Glacier Bay Lodge is featured in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume 2.

Camp Denali: a gem in the tundra

Our intrepid crew on the porch of Camp Denali Lodge.

Four years had passed since I was at Camp Denali, 85 miles deep into Denali National Park, Alaska. That trip was research for my last book, Great Lodges of the National Parks, Vol. 2 and joining the PBS crew for the scout. This time it was all pleasure.
And pleasure just doesn't cover a stay at "camp."
"A wide place in the tundra where we offer hospitality," explained owner, Wally Cole back then. And hospitality still abounds. Wally and his wife Jerri's daughter, Jenna, and her husband, Simon Hamm, have taken over operations at camp, and if there was a hiccup in the transition, no one would notice.
Running a wilderness lodge in the, well, wilderness is no small undertaking. Nothing seems quite as wild as Alaska, so the warmth from a staff of 50, your own beautiful log cabin with full view of Mt. McKinley (Denali, the great one) and personal outhouse, pot belly stove, propane lights, fantastic food in the new Potlatch dining hall and friendship with strangers each evening in the original Lodge is wildly exciting. Even in the rain. Even in the snow. Even with our three grandchildren ages 10, 8 and 6. Actually, the grandchildren were the reason for the trip and our reward!
We arrived at the Denali train depot at 1 pm on August 8th to load onto a private bus headed to Camp Denali and its sister lodge, North Face Lodge. Stays are 3 or 4 days, and the turnaround for staff is quick and efficient. We, and our luggage, was chugging off in no time with our first wildlife sighting before we got comfortable. Everyone was on high animal alert, so we saw a lynx, brown bear, golden eagle, caribou and Dall Sheep. Our 6-year-old granddaughter spotted a bit of white in the distance and announced, "I see a sheep!" Everyone sort of wrote her off until Brian (driver and naturalist) saw it and confirmed her sighting. Arms up in the air, she announced, "I am woman." Cheers followed, and we were off.
Guests got a break for a huge late luncheon buffet, but this one was rather special. There had been a caribou kill earlier, so warning signs surrounded the picnic spot, and we were asked not to stray too far. Over smoked salmon, orzo salad and reindeer sausage, we watched a bear chew on caribou antlers while a wolf circled awaiting its turn.
Arrival at camp was late, so it's straight to Potlatch for desert and a quick reception and explanation of the next day's activities. We opted for the "moderate" hike from the choice of challenging, moderate and nature (small buses shuttle guests to various spots). When they say "moderate" at camp, you best be in shape.
We awoke to a drizzle. Big breakfast promptly at 7:30 am, hikers gathered at 9:30 and we were off.  The constant rain didn't dampen our grandkids enthusiasm for berry picking and tromping through the tundra. We crested Cranberry Ridge with our guide, Maria, learning more than we could ever retain. In a nutshell: The flora is tiny. Everything is miniature. And old. And resilient. Oh, and there are bears.
Back at Last Chance cabin (a charming 2-room affair with bunks for the kids), we warmed up and headed to the Lodge where our granddaughters brought their stash of blue berries. Before we knew it, Maria had the girls in the kitchen, and our 8-year-old appeared back at the Lodge with a tray of fresh blue berry smoothies.

Walking along the ridge line in the wilderness.

Dinner and breakfast are announced by the ringing of a big bell. The food here is fantastic, as beautifully prepared as a city restaurant. There is a set menu with a vegetarian option, good for us since we had one veggie in the group. (If you want beer or wine with your dinner, bring it in and they will serve you.)
Camp always has a resident guest speaker for those who can stay awake. Don't miss them if you can.
The second day we were up at 6:30, breakfast at 7:30, packing our lunch and onto the bus to take us to the trail head (there was no trail) for a five mile trek into the park's wilderness.
An hour later, we stepped out into heavy mist that would turn to rain that would turn to snow that would turn to sleet that would somehow all seem acceptable. Because we were traipsing through the tundra, scrambling up the scree, balancing along a caribou trail on a ridge line wondering why our grandchildren were unphased by the steepness and the challenge. Our guide, Katie, taught wilderness skills to kids in the winter, so when they all started "tundra rolling" down the spongy slopes, we went with it. No injuries and peals of laughter for 45 minutes. They jumped into huge holes dug by brown bears (yes, Grizzlies), saw more bear scat than I cared to count along with dozens of Arctic ground squirrels burros. Tiny flowers and plants and tufts of caribou hair were all for the discovering. Magical.

Denali caught in the alpenglow of early morning.
 Photo by Jerry Barnes

We awoke to sunshine! The mountain was "out" and it absolutely energized guests and staff. What a powerful picture: a 20,000 foot massive, totally white mountain that simply fills your imagination.
Our third day, we opted to go out on our own. My husband and 10 year-old grandson fished for Grayling (successfully) on Moose Creek; we all canoed on Wonder Lake; and more fishing with two new friends and their dad (again successfully) and lots of berry picking and walking. In a world of catch-and-release, it was fun for each boy to keep a fish, take it to the kitchen and have it served along with the planned fare.
It is always hard to say good bye to special places. Places that capture your heart. And you don't just leave camp, you are given what feels like a heart-felt good bye then take another journey riding along the dirt road, spotting brown bear, sheep, porcupine and caribou. You chat with your new acquaintances and share stories.
And, then you have to say good bye. Vowing to come back. Alone. Together. In your dreams or in you memories.

Denali by moonlight.
 Photo by Jerry Barnes

Tips on visiting Camp Denali:

• Work with the reservation staff. They can answer any questions you may have. The goal is for you to have the best experience possible.
• Camp Denali has a wonderful website, and they actually answer their phones and emails. Stays are pricey, but it is a totally unique experience. 
• Flight sightseeing is also available, and they will arrange it. A terrific experience.
• You don't need to pack a lot, but bring everything suggested. There is extra rain gear, packs (much better than the one I brought), boots and mosquito head nets for your use along with some gear you can purchase.
• Bring an extra pair of warm gloves and plenty of hiking socks.
• I brought extra gallon size ziplock bags. Very handy to keep things dry in your pack, or bring a pack cover.
• Good binoculars are a plus!
• Understand what is involved in each day's hike. "Challenging" hikes are just that, so be sure you are physically able to do the trek.
• The season is short. We were there in early August and it was "fall" weather (with snow flurries). The upside: few mosquitoes to speak of.
• The bus ride is long and fun on a narrow dirt road. If you are uneasy about heights, sit on the right going up and left going back.

Understand the following:

• You have your own spotless outhouse. (There are 4 flush toilets on the property for guests.)
• Heat is from a pot belly stove. You need to know how to build a fire.
• Lights are easy to use propane. Same with the hot plate for warming water.
• Water in most cabins is from an outdoor spigot.
• There is a bath house for women and one for men.
• Be prompt for meals.
• You pack your own lunches from a wonderful selection of goodies.
• BYOB
• You will be well cared for in the wilderness.

Camp Denali is a privately owned, family-run business, and it has been that way since it opened in 1952. Camp and North Face Lodge are "in holdings" within the national park. This makes your stay exceptionally special. That and the Coles', Hamms' and the entire staff's devotion to the wide place in the tundra and this wilderness they call home.

I'll post about our stay at Glacier Park Lodge later in the month! We're talking whales and more whales!

If you want to read about both lodges, they are the final two chapters in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Vol. 2.

Chateau at Oregon Caves opens May 6!

Seen from the back, the Chateau seems tucked into the ravine.
Photo by David Morris

    Oregon Caves Chateau is one of the state's sometimes forgotten gems. Nestled in a ravine in the Siskiyou Mountains in the southwestern part of the state, the bark covered lodge is a lesson in "less is more." Designed by local builder, Gus Lium from nearby Grants Pass, it is a prime example of environmentally compatible, rustic architecture. The lodge, a National Historic Landmark, opened in 1934 and is one of the last examples of a hotel built on public lands in the rustic picturesque style. That public land is the country's first National Monument (1909) featuring Oregon Caves as its center attraction.
    Due, in part, to its remote location and limited activities, even Oregonians seem to forget that the lodge and monument are national treasures. Oregon's Timberline Lodge and Crater Lake Lodge are hallmarks of great lodge architecture, and they deserve that status. But the Chateau is a delight. For a time, Timberline Lodge, Crater Lake Lodge and Oregon Caves Chateau were packaged in an advertising campaign to get more notice to what was the step-sister of the great lodges. In 2008, a group of Chateau admirers formed Friends of the Oregon Caves and Chateau. Lots has happened since then including the production of forthcoming documentaries, "The Marble Halls of Oregon" and "The Chateau at Oregon Caves," airing on PBS stations in southern Oregon and northern California at the end of June. (Oregon Caves Chateau was featured in both of my books, Great Lodges of the West, 1997, and Great Lodges of the National Parks, 2002 and the subsequent nationally televised PBS series.)
    Years ago, the Chateau was open in the winter, but visitorship during the chilly months was usually low. The 2011 season runs from May 6 through October 16.
    This lodge qualifies as a "little" albeit "great" lodge with only 23 rooms, each a bit different. I love the attic rooms each filled with the highly collectible Monterey furniture with its metal strapping, painted details and distressed wood. The main lounge is anchored by a two-sided stone fireplace, and again, plenty of Monterey furniture from sofas to writing desks along a bank of windows. The recently restored split stairway off the lounge looks out at a pond with the dining room and coffee shop in the lower level, where a small water feature gurgles through the dining room, and guest rooms off the main and on the upper levels.
    A major renovation of the Chateau is planned for 2015, but some work has already taken place. The guest room photo here is a blueprint for renovation of all of the guest rooms created with funds from the National Trust for Historic Preservation garnered by the friends organization. 
    This organic, authentically charming little lodge is a not to be missed summer stop for anyone on a road trip of the Pacific Northwest. There are some terrific Spring rates being offered now, so don't miss out.

Monterey furniture fills many of the guest rooms as shown
in the "model" room.

Rates, directions and news can be found on the website oregoncaveschateau.com

Sick of cold weather? Try Death Valley and Furnace Creek Resorts

The spring-fed pool is just one of the luxuries at the Inn.

The fancy Inn at Furnace Creek closes May 8. If you are sick, sick, sick of winter (I know it's supposed to be spring) you can get a serious hit of heat at Death Valley National Park, CA. (see my March 2010 post for Inn details). The Inn is on the expensive side, but has long been a get away for Hollywood and business types who love history with their lodging.
The Ranch at Furnace Creek (not fancy but nice and open year round) is another option. You can go online at www.furnacecreekresort.com to make a reservation for either, but if you don't see what you want, call 1-800-236-7916 and the folks at Xanterra will help you out. If you have to wait, do! The reservation staff is very helpful.
Death Valley is 120 miles from Las Vegas and 300 miles from LA. There is a private airport at the park for private planes.