Southern Comfort Tour: Charleston, Beaufort and Savannah

You'll not find a great lodge or a national park in this post, but a trip to the "low country" this spring was such an unexpected vacation, that I thought I'd share a few travel tips. Tip #1, printout Road Trip: Low Country, South Carolina and Georgia to use as a base: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/road-trips/low-country-south-carolina-georgia-road-trip/
#2 I also bought Jim Morekis Charleston and Savannah guide book published by Moon. The walking tours alone make it worth the purchase.
#3 We only rented a car between Charleston and Savannah, but it is a short trip, and cars are not needed in either Charleston or Savannah.

1) FLAG WAVING. With the exception of Fort Sumter National Monument, where the first shot of the Civil War was fired, nary a confederate flag was seen. I did see a confederate flag buckle on a young guy with a "Proud to be Made in America" t-shirt. Happy to see where he was conceived. Important information. Kind of explained the belt buckle.

Flags waving at Fort Sumter National Monument

2) FOOD. While the traditional southern country cooking with plenty of grits, fried chicken and greens could be enjoyed (meat and two sides),

Meat and sides

the sophistication of the "new" locavore cuisine was impressive. Delicious. Creative. Fun. And definitely Young.
Charleston: Looking for some raw oysters, we ended up where everyone and their brother ends up at 167 Raw. Orders were backed up, but we were entertained by the chefs in the tiny kitchen (not where they shuck the oysters). We ended up with oysters for dessert after our entree. It could be a requirement to wear a full beard to work there. Guys only. Magnolia's elegant atmosphere, great service and creative cuisine puts it at the top of travelers' lists...and ours. Our big discovery was Sorgham and Salt in the University of Charleston district that opened in February. (You can walk everywhere.) Just go. You will not regret it especially if you want to get out of the historic district and hang with the hipsters. It's small plates and unusual combinations, but if there might be one too many ingrediants in some dishes, they get an A-plus for effort and execution. We enjoyed breakfast at the super popular Hominy Grill. Remember their motto: grits are good for you.

Dessert at Sorgham and Salt

Beaufort: The draw of the variety of restaurants fronting the waterfront with its gorgeous walkways lined with porch swings is hard to miss. We enjoyed Plum's with breakfast at our B and B, Rhett House Inn. (More on this terrific stop later.)
Savannah: We started each evening with Happy Hour at The Grey a converted 1938 Art Deco, Greyhound bus station on MLK Blvd. Oysters half price along with some bubbly wine and a couple of beers although most of the youngish crowd were having cocktails, of course. The restoration of the station is brilliant with lunch counters converted to both a cocktail and eating bar. The menu was exceptional. We lined up for family style dining at Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room tucked in a historic house on Jones Street. The company (you sit an community tables) 15 side dishes and three entrees plus dessert made for a fun time! Lunch line forms at 11, but we got there at 1:30 and only waited about 15 minutes to be seated. Hours: 11am-2pm, closed in January. President Obama was there for the chicken...sadly, not when we were there.
3) SEE AND BE SEEN. Part of the south is the pace. Simply put, slow down.
Charleston: There were absolutely swarms of tourists, but then, I am one. We arrived on the final day of the annual Home and Garden tour. I bought tickets ahead of time and we arrived promptly, lined up with our docent, Sarah, and were off. Not until we completed the lovely tour did I figure out that I had signed up for the wrong historic tour through the wrong historical society (there are many). Oh, well. We took a self-guided one on our own and found it just swell.
Waterfront Park: Check. Great walking with tons of tourists and probably the place for bachelorette parties. Evening strolls are the best.
Circular Congregations Church. The city is awash with churches, but we happened upon an event one evening at this church that was founded for "dissenters" (meaning anyone not Anglican). A gospel performance in what was once called White Meeting House brought out a small but pretty sweet crowd to listen to a family sing. There wasn't a dry eye in the place at the end when the singers went into the audience and sang, "We are in this place together." Meaning, I believe, we are all in these troubled times together.
French Huguenots. Never heard of them, but now I have. Apparently, Carolina didn't care what church or religion you adhered to as long as you pledged your allegiance to the British crown. These French folks were basically driven out of France by the Catholics and settled here in 1690. They still have daily services in French at the church on Queen Street.
Beaufort:

They even preserve the trees in Beaufort.

The place to see is the entire Historic District, the waterfront and a spot on a swing or the end of every road where the City of Beaufort preserved the view. Impressive. Oh, and the trees: if a limb of a gigantic oak hangs low instead of hacking it off, the city places a warning of Low Clearance on the limb. Most cities would just cut it off. They even preserve the trees in the Historic District!

The cottage at Penn Center where Dr. King stayed.

Penn Center: Penn School National Historic Landmark District: There are dozens of side trips in the low country between Charleston and Savannah, but this is a must stop. In 1862, a group of abolitionist Quakers from Philadelphia came during the Union occupation and joined forces with Charlotte Forten, an African American educator, to form a school for the children of freed slaves. It is a humble group of buildings, many built by the students, who were educated here. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. found it a safe haven during the Civil Rights era. Not only was it a place for planning, but Dr. King wrote his "I Have a Dream" speech here among the live oaks.
Savannah: The city is on the river, but while it's cleaned up its act, it's no place to hang out. They have trolley and carriage and Segway tours along with riverboat cruises. I would skip them all and just walk. Get a map and go to every town square you can fit into your visit. The city has a north and south historic district with some unfortunate urban renewal in the downtown core. Don't miss Forsyth Park! Again, loads of churches but the not to be missed is the First African Baptist Church on Franklin Square. This is the oldest black congregation in North America dating to 1777. An another unexpected monument is the Haitian Monument in the center of the square for the 750 Haitian volunteers who fought for American independence.

One beautiful square after another in Savannah.

LODGING: Okay, so here is some "lodge" info.
Charleston: Stay in one of the many historic Bed and Breakfasts if you can get a room. We got a Vacation Rental that was terrible. I don't like them anyway. Be prepared: Everything is expensive.
Beaufort: I highly recommend The Rhett House Inn in Beaufort's incredible historic district. If it's good enough for Barbra Streisand, I guess it's good enough for us. We loved everything about this place from the owner, the big porch, the location, the cocktails or wine, cheese and breakfast.

The Rhett House Inn, Beaufort.

Savannah: The city is known for paying a lot and not getting much in return. But, again, I would stay at a Bed and Breakfast. We opted for the good ole Hampton Inn on Martin Luther King Blvd. Not the one down by the river. It worked out just fine.