ZION PARK LODGE AND CABINS
The "great lodge" at Zion National Park was designed by my favorite architect of the era, Gilbert Stanley Underwood, whose work graces many of the national parks. Sad to say this lodge burned to the ground in 1966. The new facility was rebuilt by the Union Pacific Railway in 108 days. Not what Mr. Underwood had in mind, but by then he was deceased. What remained of his work at the park were the cabins that surround the lodge along with numerous other structures including the dormitories and what is now the Nature Center. The good news is that in 1992 the 108-day version of the lodge with the dining facilities was spruced up and redone to be more in keeping with the original concept with exterior sandstone pillars and balcony. And it looks pretty good. But the really good news is the recent renovation of 40 historic Western Cabins. I'm dying to get there and see what's been done! In 1997 these same cabins (then called Deluxe Cabins) were restored to a point by first removing acoustic paneled ceilings exposing the rafters and vaulted ceilings, repainting, in addition to some structural work.
The latest undertaking by Archdeacon Designs looks like a successful effort to bring back the charm and detail of the 1927 cabins. The old carpeting was ripped out, original fir flooring refinished and custom-designed replica furniture by Old Hickory Furniture Company based upon an original dresser using oak and wicker replaces the standard motel-variety national park decor. Yippee!!!! Draperies and custom-made blankets to replicate the original Indian designs and lighting fixtures either replicate or complement the originals.
Unlike many lodges at national parks, Zion Lodge is open year round. There are 81 rooms (also spruced up) 40 cabins, a restaurant, cafe and gift shop.
The cabins are on the National Register of Historic Places and in the Zion Lodge Historic District that includes 19 buildings. (See TIPS below for details.) The park has had an uneven history on preservation. In 1976 the swimming pool and Underwood's bath houses were dismantled, and in 1984 the Standard Cabins were auctioned off and can be seen scattered around the state serving as summer cabins or storage sheds. I babble about the buildings (obviously the landscape is breathtaking), but if you're interested in national park rustic architecture take a self-guided tour of the structures that include Gilbert Stanley Underwood buildings (he worked on Zion park buildings for over 15 years), NPS architects' designs and numerous CCC constructed structures, bridges and pathways. Note that these rustic building are not the log-type construction found at some other parks, rather frame structures that rely on extensive use of stone work detailing or some buildings with smooth faced sandstone facades to blend the man made structures with the amazing towering cliffs of the park.
Anyone who goes to Zion before I do, let me know if the Western Cabin renovation is as good as it seems to be.
For reservations and information for Zion Park Lodge go to www.zionlodge.com or call 1-303-297-2757.
BEYOND ZION TO BRYCE AND NORTH RIM OF GRAND CANYON
If you travel to Zion, make sure to continue to Bryce Canyon NP and then the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Each facility features Underwood designed buildings. The construction of Zion Park Lodge and Cabins was the first lodge in a five-million-dollar plan the Union Pacific mapped out in 1922, under the direction of Stephen Mather (first director of the National Park Service), for Cedar Breaks, Zion, Bryce and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in what became the "Loop Tour." The 1928 Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim was probably Underwood's most spectacular great lodge after The Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National Park, California. Tragically, it burned in 1936. The new lodge was constructed on the same hanging-on-the-edge of the canyon footprint with a different roofline. Mr. Underwood was not consulted on the design. (And he was very much alive.) It still remains a magnificent building. Bryce Canyon Lodge was inspired by not only NPS rustic "parkitecture" but the Arts and Crafts movement. More on Bryce Canyon Lodge later.
MY TIPS ON ZION PARK LODGE:
- Go off season not so much to miss the crowds, but to get a totally different impression of the park.
- Check out the NPS website for the park. There are some road closures that do not impact getting to the lodge, but best to be aware before you head out: http://www.nps.gov/zion/parkmgmt/upload/Zion%20Construction%20Information%20Final%202.pdf
- Reserve a Western Cabin. That's obvious by my post, but stay in the park if possible even in the newer motel units that were tastefully built to match the other buildings. There are no rooms in the lodge itself.
- If you are interested in other historic buildings, The Zion Lodge Historic District includes the Mattress Shed (1), Womens Dormitory (1), Bake Shop (1), Mens Dormitory (1) Deluxe Quadraplex Western Cabins (5) and Deluxe Duplex Western Cabins (10). There are dozens of other historic buildings and structures in the park, outside of the district. Underwood's Zion Nature Center and 1941 Greek Revival Ranger Dormitory; the 1924 Grotto residence, 1928 & 1932 Pine Creek residence and Ranger Residence (East entrance) are a sampling of historic buildings. The Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel is a story in itself. Harvey Kaiser's The National Park Architecture Sourcebook has a chapter on Zion. It might be helpful in finding the individual buildings. Unfortunately, the Park Service does not have a handbook on the historic district.
For more history on these Great Lodges (Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon among them) and the Loop Tour, purchase Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002 edition).
RECENT ARTICLES I'VE WRITTEN:
I wrote a couple of magazine pieces recently: A cover piece for Northwest Travel March/April 2010 edition featuring a road trip of the Pacific NW visiting 6 Grand Lodges and another for Style 1900 on America's Ten Best Craftsman Era Park Lodges. Check them out and thanks for following my blog.
