There are swimming pools, and then there is the fresh water pool at Furnace Creek Inn. Right there in Death Valley where the average rainfall is 1.8 inches a year, spring water fills the pool five times a day then makes its way into the 3.3 acres of gardens, then onto the golf course. That's what an oasis is all about, and the 1927 inn is the real deal. The Inn has the opposite season of most great lodges of the national parks. Searing heats prompts the summer closure in May with reopening in October. Now is the ideal time to go to visit Death Valley. Spring flowers are expected to show up in lower elevations in March, and with the excess rain, there should be a wonderful display. And what better place to stay than this blast from the past. It's part roaring Twenties, part big business enterprise (Pacific Coast Borax), tons of history and much of it built of adobe fashioned on site. Then there are the gardens....and, oh, yes, the pool. The gardens, designed by Daniel Hull, are as lush and lovely an oasis as anyone could hope for.
We arrived in early March, and I was sure we were on the wrong road. "It's the only road," answered my husband, Jerry, who was driving as I got myself worked up with anticipation. Desert lovers say you have to look hard to appreciate the grandeur of landscapes like Death Valley. True. It seemed like endless sand and windswept mountain ranges. We checked into the cheaper Furnace Creek Ranch a typical national park motel. I looked with longing at the Inn; we would check in the next day. We rounded up some grub (there is a big push to promote miner lingo) at the cafeteria, watched the sun set and called it a night.
The following day we moved into the Inn. The Inn, designed by Albert Martin, was built in phases beginning in 1926, and each addition is a bit different from the other. Our second floor North Wing room faced the Panamint Range and while not huge, it was a delight, and the Stargazer terrace at the end of the hall seemed to be reserved just for us. The general manager, Alex Cabana, added elegance to the whole place.
My days were spent at the marvelous archives with historic photos, documents, books...a plethora of records recently moved here from Borax headquarters. My husband played golf on the 18-hole course (lowest in the country) each morning. We met for lunch at the funky golf snack shop, then I drove him to Furnace Creek Inn where he lounged around the pool.
Since the 66-room Inn was built in stages, the room and a few suite offerings vary. For panoramic views, North Wing rooms with the View not Hill side are perfect. Other rooms in the single story addition offer soothing views of the gardens, but no balconies. This really doesn't matter, since there are terraces just around the corner. The Pool Bungalow, the most sought after room, stands alone above the pool and below the recreation hall. Rates range from $320 to $455 a night from now until closing in mid-May.
Tips:
- Check out the wild flowers season. The season begins at the end of February and goes through April. Check out Wildflower Watch for regular updates.
- If taking all of your meals at the Inn dining room seems a bit daunting, order room service and eat on your terrace or balcony. Remember to bring what they describe as "casual elegance" in your suitcase. T-shirts and jeans just don't cut it in the dining room. There are also four restaurants, a saloon and cocktail lounge at the casual Ranch (open all year).
- If you're on a budget, Furnace Creek Ranch is just fine. Unlike the Inn, the Ranch is open year round. You can still take a park ranger led tour of the Inn during its season.
- Golfing on the lowest elevation course in the US (214 feet below sea level) is also fine. Nothing out of the ordinary, but it is fun. Greens fee run $35-$55, cart is $25.The snack bar is an affordable place to have lunch.
- In addition to the wonders of Death Valley National Park, the Borax Museum is worth a stop. If you like horses, you can arrange for horseback and carriage outings.
- Stargazing. A must.
- The Inn books well in advance, and the Inn closes on May 9 reopening in October. If you can't get a room for 2010, do it for 2011!!!
This copyright photo was taken by David M.Morris and appears in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two
