LITTLE LODGES FOR WINTER ESCAPES

NATIONAL PARK INN

MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WASHINGTON

There’s something incredibly intimate about staying at the National Park Inn in Mt. Rainier National Park. The 25-room National Historic Landmark is part of the Longmire Historic District that includes the Longmire Museum, and the 1928 National Park Service Administration Building, which is now a Wilderness Information Center. The district is a wonderful example of national park “parkitecture.” But what might be best about the Inn and its setting is that it seems so small against the backdrop of 14,411 foot high Mount Rainier. The massive stratovolcano can dwarf just about anything!

Guests can spend their day snow shoeing (there are even park ranger led treks), cross country skiing or just hunkering down in front of the fireplace. Paradise Inn closes for the winter, so this is the only accommodation in the park open year round. (The snow park 13 miles from National Park Inn in Paradise Valley opens Dec. 18 and offers tubing, skiing, snowboarding and old-fashioned snow-time fun.)

Originally built as the Longmire Spring Hotel in 1916, the Inn burned in 1926 and the annex (now the inn) was rebuilt in 1935 and renovated in 1989. Last time I stayed there it was May, but a blizzard made me feel like it was January!

Amazingly, there are rooms available at the Inn for the holidays. The park is just 54 miles southeast of Seattle. What a place to have your Currier & Ives fix! If you’re interested in other winter stays, the mid-week, two night getaway with your second night FREE is hard to beat. The special rates begin at $110 a night, Sunday trough Thursday and excludes the holidays. A full breakfast comes with standard rooms (not specials).

If you can’t go, think of this as another gift experience. Gift certificates are available.

Call 360-569-2275 for information and reservations or www.mtrainierguestservices.com/

EXPERIENCE MT. HOOD'S SILCOX HUT

Silcox Hut's  exquisite main living/dining area.

There are holiday gifts, and then there are holiday gift experiences. Our family has always been big on experiences over things. A number of years ago, our son and his then girl friend (now wife) gave us a Christmas gift certificate to stay at Silcox Hut. Silcox Hut, you might ask? What's that? Let’s start with Timberline Lodge.

It’s said that Oregonians like to think of Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood as their collective home. And what a home it is. Built during the Great Depression as part of the WPA projects, the lodge is the state’s most meaningful and remarkable building.

Yet Timberline does not stand-alone. One thousand feet above the lodge, a mile above timberline at 7,000-foot elevation stands a miniature version of the lodge. The  stone and timber Silcox Hut was built in 1939 by the same laborers and craftspeople that created the lodge. And that’s where we were headed.

The original purpose of the hut was the upper terminus and warming station for the Magic Mile Chairlift, the second oldest chairlift in the United States. It sheltered climbers and skiers for twenty-five years, and then fell into disrepair to the point that it looked like demolition would be the hut’s fate.

But in 1985, the hut was put on the National Register of Historic Places and Friends of Silcox Hut was established as a non-profit group to restore the building. The restoration and adaptive re-use of the hut garnered numerous awards including recognition by the American Institute of Architects.

Lucky for us and any other group that find themselves in this little treasure. Groups (12 person minimum Sunday-Thrusday and 16 on the weekends and holidays) can rent the hut, settle in for unsurpassed stargazing, have dinner catered from Timberline’s superb Cascade Dining Room then bunk down in, well, bunks. And we did just that. A host is always present to show you the ropes, and if you’re lucky, tell some pretty good tales…generally about climbing Mount Hood. Serious mountain climbers still use it as a stop for hot cocoa or tea before their ascent of the state’s most climbed (and treacherous) peak.

The hut’s main level on the second floor is the living area that is a miniature of the grand lodge even featuring the “Timberline Arch” in the roofline. A big fireplace, hand-carved wooden tables and chairs make for a not exactly “cozy” gathering spot, but a beautiful one. This is where the family style dinner is served featuring veggie or meat lasagne, salad, vegetables, rolls etc. along with coffee tea and desert. It’s BYOB if you want wine. A hearty oatmeal breakfast is served here in the morning.

The night we were there it was crystal clear, incredibly cold outside and just plan stunning. We walked around the hut with snow crunching under our feet picking out the lights of Portland to the northwest and our home town of Bend over 100 miles away to the south. What a place to count the stars and your blessings.

When we were ready for bed, we crawled into our bunks (each of the six rooms is outfitted with bunkbeds---one with queen-sized bunks) and fell into a sound sleep. We were awakened by climbers in the wee hours of the morning, stopping before they made their ascent. We stayed in bed!

You can bring your own sleeping bags or enjoy their bedding for an additional $20. The package includes meals, transportation up and back to the hut either via the chairlift of snow cat. There are very nice "dorm style" bathrooms. You can also ski while staying at the hut.

2011 rates are $130 per person Sunday-Thursday and $150 Friday, Saturday and holidays. For additional information, call 503-272-3251 or go to http://www.timberlinelodge.com/silcox-hut/

I've written about Silcox Hut in Great Lodges of the National Parks and Only in Oregon, so if you're interested in more, check out those books at www.greatlodges.com or straight to amazon.com. Just writing about it again makes me want to get together family and friends and head back!

LOOKING FOR SOME OTHER LITTLE LODGES? I'll post those later this month, so keep on checking my blog!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Once in a while something happens that just does my heart good. The story of this couple is one of them. Enjoy reading this over the holidays, and Happy Thanksgiving!

DUO TAKES TOUR OF THE GREAT LODGES

http://www.issaquahpress.com/2010/11/23/duo-takes-national-tour-of-%E2%80%98great-lodges%E2%80%99/DUO TAKES TOUR OF THE GREAT LODGES

End of the year bargains at Lake Quinault Lodge

Lake Quinault Lodge 

The great lodges of the national parks are managed by various concession operators. Lake Quinault Lodge (along with Lake Crescent, Kalaloch and Sol Duc Hot Springs) in Washington's Olympic Peninsula come under the management of Aramark Parks and Destinations.
There is an end of the year deal for Lake Quinault and Kalaloch (not one of the historic great lodges) that seems too good to be true. You can stay one night at either lodge for $99 and get the second night for $20.10 between now and Dec. 30, 2010 with blackout dates of Nov. 23-26 and Dec. 22-26. 

Lake Quinault Lodge great hall fireplace.

If you're thinking it's too rainy this time of year, think again! Lake Quinault is rain forest country and the stormy weather only adds to the fun...honest! And if you're lodge bound, there is no better place to read a book than in front of the huge great hall fireplace. When you're hungry, the Roosevelt Dining Room offers good food with a Northwest twist. 

Lake Quinault rooms available during this promotion include Lakeside rooms (one king or queen or two queens with views) and one non-view Boathouse room. The Lakeside rooms are in a newer annex, and the Boathouse is a historic building. Both are easy and very short walks to the main lodge. Rooms in the historic lodge are not part of the promotion.


Reservations for both Lake Quinault and Kalaloch lodges can be made by visiting www.olympicnationalparks.com or by calling (866) 297-7367, and reservations must be made by November 30. Deposit for first night is taken at the time of booking with a refund policy seen on line. 


(Lake Quinault Lodge is featured in Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two.)


Photos /Aramark Parks and Destinations

Plan now for winter travel to national park lodges

         While many national park lodges in the United States close up shop when the snow falls, some throw open their doors to winter guests. Make your reservations now to get in on the fun. Here are a few of my favorites:

Travelers can escape winter at Furnace Creek Inn. Photo by David Morris

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CA
The Mission-inspired Furnace Creek Inn closes each summer as temperatures soar, but come October 8th the 1927 luxury resort reopens. This is the ultimate oasis with fresh water, spring-fed swimming pool, lush gardens, locally inspired cuisine and the kind of setting that drew the Hollywood crowd of the Roaring 20s. Guests still get VIP treatment at this intimate retreat where days are filled with exploring the park, playing golf on the lowest elevation course in America or taking part in a variety of special events at the inn. Visitors to Death Valley now have the option of being picked up at the in-park hotels and taking guided jeep tours to some of the park’s remote attractions. In cooperation with Pink Jeep Tours, guests travel to areas where high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicles are strongly recommended.
Tour prices range from $65 to $165. Reservations for the tours can be made directly with Pink Jeep Tours by calling 1-888-900-4480. For those who want to explore the park on their own, Jeep Wranglers are now available for rent at a rather pricey $175 for 24 hours. You can also rent a bicycle at nearby Furnace Creek Ranch. The best part of one's stay at the inn is simply the solitude. As one park ranger said of Death Valley, "The silence is deafening." www.furnacecreekresort.com, 800-236-7916. 

The Stanley is open year round, and winter is a joy.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, COLO

Stephen King may have been inspired to write The Shining after a stay at The Stanley Hotel in Estes Park, gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, but today the elegant 1909 Colonial Revival hotel is anything but creepy. Constructed by FO Stanley of Stanley Steam automobile fame, the complex of perfectly restored buildings are parts of a National Historic District. When it opened, The Stanley's East Coast elegance defied the Wild West persona that had defined the state for so long. Instead of park rustic design found in lodges like Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, the hotel offered the comforts afforded the upper class clients of the era. While many of the public rooms are beautifully restored, their uses have been altered to accommodate conferences and weddings. It's worth taking a tour, but be prepared for lots of ghost stories. If you opt for a winter visit and it's is snowy, the setting is spectacular. Get a room with a view and be enchanted by this lovely hotel.  www.stanleyhotel.com, 800-976-1377.

The lobby of Lake Quinault Lodge is the ideal place to curl up and read a book. Photo by David Morris

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST, WA

Set along the lake shore, surrounded by one of the Western Hemisphere's three temperate coniferous rain forests is the shingle-covered shake-roofed Lake Quinault Lodge. Designed by Robert Reamer (who also gave us Yellowstone’s Old Faithful Inn), the lodge is located in the south central portion of Washington's Olympic Peninsula. Guests gather around the massive brick fireplace for games of Scrabble and chess while they look out through floor-to-ceiling paned windows at the wonder of it all. Meals are served in the same dining room where President Franklin D. Roosevelt dined during his 1937 tour of the peninsula while evaluating the feasibility of creating Olympic National Park. The guest rooms in the lodge have recently been updated along with some historic restoration of the main lobby. Always good news! Bring your rain gear and a good book. www.visitlakequinault.com, 888-896-3827.

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CA

Probably the most elegant hotel in a national park is The Ahwahnee in Yosemite National Park, California. Designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, the towering stone, glass and concrete (made to look like wood) hotel was meant to draw visitors of "means" to the national park. Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service wanted to make sure that those he needed to support the parks had proper (and imposing) accommodations. The stunning hotel opened in 1927 and fabulous public rooms such as the 77-foot long Great Lounge and rustic yet formal dining room along with intimate spaces such as the Mural Room or Solarium wowed guests then as they do today. Winter hotel events include the Christmas holiday's Bracebridge Dinner, and Vintner’s and Chef’s Holidays, but nothing beats taking in the breathtaking views of the frozen Yosemite Falls, Half Dome or Glacier Point from one of the hotel’s many vantage points.

www.yosemitepark.com/Accommodations_TheAhwahnee.aspx, (801) 559-4884.

Most visitors to Yosemite know about The Ahwahnee, but one of the oldest mountain resorts in California is located just seven miles from the park’s south entrance. Built in 1879, the Wawona Hotel is part of eight New England-style buildings set on the site of old Clark Station and lodge in the park. This National Historic Landmark hotel is an ideal place for skiers headed to Badger Pass Ski Area or those who venture a cross-country ski trip whether for the day or an overnight adventure to Glacier Point Ski Hut. If you’re looking for a Currier and Ives setting in California, the Wawona Hotel is it. www.yosemitepark.com/Accommodations_WawonaHotel.aspx, (801) 559-4884.

There are numerous lodges and motels at the Grand Canyon but El Tovar is the Grand Dame of the South Rim

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK, AZ

At the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, five of the six lodges are open year-round, and many are fully booked during the summer season. The historic, 78-room El Tovar Hotel is typically the first lodge to sell out. During the months of November and December, however, there are still rooms available at El Tovar for visitors who book in the weeks ahead.  What you'll find is a low-slung, wood, and log hotel that seems to sink into the landscape along the edge of the Grand Canyon. Part Victorian-era resort and part rustic log cabin when it opened in 1905, it provided both the comforts of the established Eastern or European resorts and the excitement of the newly "discovered" Southwest. Winter is an ideal time to miss the crowds at the canyon without sacrificing the heart-stopping views found just steps from the hotel. El Tovar was redecorated, and updated for the 2005 centennial celebration, and the dining room offers some of the best food in the national parks.  www.grandcanyonlodges.com, 888-297-2757.

MOUNT HOOD NATIONAL FOREST, OR

 Six miles up a winding road on Mount Hood, Oregon, at the point where trees give way to volcanic ash, this elegant piece of soft-gray architecture looks rather unimposing in contrast to the looming presence of Oregon's highest peak. Built by the WPA during the Great Depression, this is the ultimate "ski lodge" where everything remains as it was in 1935. The lodge is a living museum featuring gigantic timber construction, hand wrought iron work, loomed textiles and mountains of personality. The Cascade Dining room offers fabulous Northwest cuisine. Since Timberline Lodge was built as a ski resort, it only makes sense to visit here in the winter. They've already kicked off the winter season with a bunch of ski pass offerings. As noted in my earlier post, you'll find about $4 million worth of improvements at this 74,000-square-foot National Historic Landmark. An added bonus is seeing the fabulous new snow entrance that replaced the ugly tunnel affair. The original design didn't take into account the mountains of snow blown into the entrance, so after much debate and many proposals here is the new winter entrance completed in 2009.  www.timberlinelodge.com, 800-547-1406.

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT

The Great Northern Railway constructed a series of massive lodges and backcountry retreats that dot Glacier National Park, Montana. Lake McDonald Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel and Glacier Park Lodge close for the winter, but the more intimate Belton Chalet stays open. Tucked against the hillside past the west entrance of the park, the chocolate brown cluster of restored buildings was the first foray into tourist development by the railway’s president Louis Hill. The chalet opened in 1910 the same year President Taft signed a bill creating Glacier National Park. Designed by Kirkland Cutter, the chalet was brought back from near ruin and reopened in 2000. Cottages are available, but the restaurant and taproom are only open on weekends during the winter season. You won’t find crowds this time of year, but you will discover a slice of “real” Montana. www.beltonchalet.com, 406-888-5000.

Cavallo Point Lodge is the newest lodge in the national park system.

GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL PARK, CA
 Set within the Golden Gate National Parks at Fort Baker, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge near Sausalito, California, is the national park's newest lodge. Cavallo Point Lodge is a compound of twenty-four historic military buildings, transformed into a combination of historic rehabilitation and contemporary construction. The one-time military post became a 350-acre national park site in 2002, and in 2008 the parade grounds and hillside became a “green” destination resort. Guests can choose from the renovated officers' residence (including the generals' house) or newly constructed guest suites and rooms. In addition, Cavallo Point offers a high-end Healing Arts Center and Spa, posh Murray Circle restaurant with extensive wine cellar, cooking classes, meditation and yoga in the former chapel, hiking and biking. Not exactly what those who awoke to revelry found. www.cavallopoint.com, 888-651-2003.

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, WY

Yellowstone National Park’s nine lodges close between late September and mid-October. The park's winter season begins Dec. 18th with the reopening of Old Faithful Snow Lodge followed by the reopening of Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel on Dec. 21st. They will close the first week of March. My choice would be Old Faithful Snow Lodge next door to the shuttered Old Faithful Inn. Opened in 1999, the timber and log lodge houses 100 guest rooms, a huge great room with fireplace, dining room and nooks to call your own. Half of the fun is just getting there. The interior of the park is only accessible by snowmobile, snowcoach or cross-country skis.  Once you’ve checked in, the park is yours via cross country skiing, snowshoeing, or limited snowmobile and snowcoach rides. Geysers, roaming wildlife and the stark beauty of the snow-covered landscape make it a favorite time for a visit. Winter Getaway packages include snowcoach transportation, and are available from Jan. 2 through March 7, 2011 at Mammoth Hot Springs and through March 6 at the Snow Lodge. "Trail of the Wolf" packages take you into the park to observe wildlife in the Northern Range of the park.  Winter Getaway packages may be booked by phone by calling (1) 307-344-7311 or toll-free (1) 866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375). Complete tour details are also available at the web site www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges.com 

For more information on the author's books and the great lodges, check out www.greatlodges.com

  

Maya Goes to Timberline Lodge

When asked if I'm doing another book or what's next, I like to say that I want to take our grandchildren to some of the great lodges and parks. You know, visit the parks and not work. So, we had just the chance with 7-year-old Maya who joined us on a trip to Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood, Oregon, in July 2010. As we approached Portland on Highway 84 east it looked like we would be engulfed in clouds, but as we started the assent to the 1937 WPA masterpiece that mammoth peak was bathed in late-day sunlight. The mountain seemed covered in giant swirls of frosting on a birthday cake with the top and lodge poking out of the whiteness.

"Awesome," exclaimed Maya. And, gee, it was! I never tire of coming upon these places whether it's the rim of Crater Lake, Old Faithful Geyser, El Capitan or the Grand Canyon. Yes, awesome just about covers it. With my captive audience in hand, we toured the lodge taking in every nook. Not only did Maya listen, but she took notes and did illustrations.

This visit we opted for a Fireplace Room, my first stay in one of these spacious suites. Not only was the fireplace a draw for reading in front of, but with plenty of snow outside, it made for a cozy evening. There were two queen beds, a seating area and easy access to the outdoor pool and jacuzzi just down the hall.  In addition, the bathroom had been redone as have all of  the bathrooms on the second and third floors. But new is not what this lodge is about. The original furniture (designed by Margery Hoffman Smith), and beautiful reproductions of drapes and bedspreads graced the room. (And the linens were top of the line.)
We made dinner reservations at the Cascade Dining Room, and while we could have opted for a  more casual dinner in the second floor eating area of the Ram's Head Bar, our dinner was well worth it! Our window table was the perfect place to watch the sun drop below the bank of clouds and chat about FDR, the handcrafted chairs and playing a game of finding all of the signature "Timberline arches" within eye's view. The food was delicious, service delightful and the kids' menu offered a bit more than the standard chicken nuggets and pizza slice.

Caring for this National Historic Landmark is an ongoing challenge, but this year numerous projects from painting the exterior to replacing windows are being done as part of the federal government's American Recovery Act. Summer was particularly busy, but we found little disruption during our stay at this finely operated institution.

If you go:

• Remember, this is a ski resort, so don't be shy about taking to the slopes. IF you don't ski or board, you can take the Magic Mile Sky Ride for an even better view.
• Discuss the kind of room and view you want when making your reservation. The staff is extremely accommodating. Ask if your bathroom has be renovated. The Lodge offers everything from dorm-like rooms to Fireplace Suites.
• Make your Cascade dinner reservations when you make your room reservation.
• Take a docent tour of the lodge. This is the only WPA constructed great lodge, and the history adds to its charm.
• Check out www.timberlinelodge.com for specials.
• Find Bruno, the lodge mascot. He's an adorable Saint Bernard and can be hanging out in the day lodge gift shop. It's also a handy place to purchase the stuffed variety for your grandchild.
• For more on this masterpiece, read Great Lodges of the National Parks. PBS has been re airing the television series featuring the lodge in the Pacific Northwest segment. It is very special, since the late Richard Kohnstamm, the man responsible for "saving" the lodge has a lovely segment in the program. 

HISTORIC ZION CABINS RENOVATED AND REOPENED

BOOKS:

ZION PARK LODGE AND CABINS
The "great lodge" at Zion National Park was designed by my favorite architect of the era,  Gilbert Stanley Underwood, whose work graces many of the national parks. Sad to say this lodge burned to the ground in 1966. The new facility was rebuilt by the Union Pacific Railway in 108 days. Not what Mr. Underwood had in mind, but by then he was deceased. What remained of his work at the park were the cabins that surround the lodge along with numerous other structures including the dormitories and what is now the Nature Center. The good news is that in 1992 the 108-day version of the lodge with the dining facilities was spruced up and redone to be more in keeping with the original concept with exterior sandstone pillars and balcony. And it looks pretty good. But the really good news is the recent renovation of 40 historic Western Cabins. I'm dying to get there and see what's been done! In 1997 these same cabins (then called Deluxe Cabins) were restored to a point by first removing acoustic paneled ceilings exposing the rafters and vaulted ceilings, repainting, in addition to some structural work. 
The latest undertaking by Archdeacon Designs looks like a successful effort to bring back the charm and detail of the 1927 cabins. The old carpeting was ripped out, original fir flooring refinished and custom-designed replica furniture by Old Hickory Furniture Company based upon an original dresser using oak and wicker replaces the standard motel-variety national park decor. Yippee!!!! Draperies and custom-made blankets to replicate the original Indian designs and lighting fixtures either replicate or complement the originals.

OK, so all of the charm is back, but with a few updates including ceiling fans, air conditioners, water heaters, desks with built-in power outlets and beds with "triple-sheeting, 300-count cotton." And the project was sort of green to boot. The only negative for me personally will be the July installation of television sets. Please. Oh, well, just don't turn the things on. Take a hike instead.
Unlike many lodges at national parks, Zion Lodge is open year round. There are 81 rooms (also spruced up)  40 cabins, a restaurant, cafe and gift shop.
The cabins are on the National Register of Historic Places and in the Zion Lodge Historic District that includes 19 buildings. (See TIPS below for details.) The park has had an uneven history on preservation. In 1976 the swimming pool and Underwood's bath houses were dismantled, and in 1984 the Standard Cabins were auctioned off and can be seen scattered around the state serving as summer cabins or storage sheds. I babble about the buildings (obviously the landscape is breathtaking), but if you're interested in national park rustic architecture take a self-guided tour of the structures that include Gilbert Stanley Underwood buildings (he worked on Zion park buildings for over 15 years), NPS architects' designs and numerous CCC constructed structures, bridges and pathways. Note that these rustic building are not the log-type construction found at some other parks, rather frame structures that rely on extensive use of stone work detailing or some buildings with smooth faced sandstone facades to blend the man made structures with the amazing towering cliffs of the park.
Anyone who goes to Zion before I do, let me know if the Western Cabin renovation is as good as it seems to be.
For reservations and information for Zion Park Lodge go to www.zionlodge.com or call 1-303-297-2757.


BEYOND ZION TO BRYCE AND NORTH RIM OF GRAND CANYON
If you travel to Zion, make sure to continue to Bryce Canyon NP and then the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Each facility features Underwood designed buildings. The construction of Zion Park Lodge and Cabins was the first lodge in a five-million-dollar plan the Union Pacific mapped out in 1922, under the direction of Stephen Mather (first director of the National Park Service), for Cedar Breaks, Zion, Bryce and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in what became the "Loop Tour." The 1928 Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim was probably Underwood's most spectacular great lodge after The Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National Park, California. Tragically, it burned in 1936. The new lodge was constructed on the same hanging-on-the-edge of the canyon footprint with a different roofline. Mr. Underwood was not consulted on the design. (And he was very much alive.) It still remains a magnificent building. Bryce Canyon Lodge was inspired by not only NPS rustic "parkitecture" but the Arts and Crafts movement. More on Bryce Canyon Lodge later.


MY TIPS ON ZION PARK LODGE:

• Go off season not so much to miss the crowds, but to get a totally different impression of the park.
• Check out the NPS website for the park. There are some road closures that do not impact getting to the lodge, but best to be aware before you head out: http://www.nps.gov/zion/parkmgmt/upload/Zion%20Construction%20Information%20Final%202.pdf
• Reserve a Western Cabin. That's obvious by my post, but stay in the park if possible even in the newer motel units that were tastefully built to match the other buildings. There are no rooms in the lodge itself.
• If you are interested in other historic buildings, The Zion Lodge Historic District includes the Mattress Shed (1), Womens Dormitory (1), Bake Shop (1), Mens Dormitory (1) Deluxe Quadraplex Western Cabins (5) and Deluxe Duplex Western Cabins (10). There are dozens of other historic buildings and structures in the park, outside of the district. Underwood's Zion Nature Center and 1941 Greek Revival Ranger Dormitory; the 1924 Grotto residence, 1928 & 1932 Pine Creek residence and Ranger Residence (East entrance) are a sampling of historic buildings. The Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel is a story in itself. Harvey Kaiser's The National Park Architecture Sourcebook  has a chapter on Zion. It might be helpful in finding the individual buildings. Unfortunately, the Park Service does not have a handbook on the historic district.

BOOKS:
For more history on these Great Lodges (Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon among them) and the Loop Tour, purchase Great Lodges of the National Parks  (2002 edition). 




RECENT ARTICLES I'VE WRITTEN:
I wrote a couple of magazine pieces recently: A cover piece for Northwest Travel March/April 2010 edition featuring a road trip of the Pacific NW visiting 6 Grand Lodges and another for Style 1900 on America's Ten Best Craftsman Era Park Lodges. Check them out and thanks for following my blog.

Yellowstone's Great Lodges

OLD FAITHFUL INN

There is a sense of frenzy at Yellowstone National Park. Each year three million visitors, high on the anticipation of encountering bison, bear, elk, moose, coyote and wolves, visit America’s first national park. The wildlife roam 2.2 million acres of mountainous, deeply gorged, fire-scarred, geyser-studded landscape interspersed with gentle meadows and meandering rivers.The lodge options are varied, in different parts of the park, and each stunning in its own way. Old Faithful Inn (1904) is almost as well known as the geyser it is named after. Designed by Robert Reamer, whose touch is seen throughout the park, it is a National Historic Landmark and not to be missed stop to the Upper Geyser Basin.
With rooms in the "old house," two annexes, and cabins there are plenty of options. For those who seek authenticity, go for the "old house" where some rooms share a shower/bathroom with others; there are sinks in each room. (Think college dorm but old.) These rooms are also the cheapest at the Inn. Both annexes have been beautifully remodeled with new bathrooms, furniture, etc.. There are also cabins, but I'd stay in the Inn. Remember, these historic lodges are not about your guest room. When built, travelers of the era wanted to gather in grand public spaces and dining rooms not hide away in their rooms with spa baths.
The great hall is one of those awe-inspriing places that captivates you as soon as you step through the big red doors. Tiny windows catch the light and it dances about the great hall making sunspots on the hardwood floor. Look up: it's like being in a wooden circus tent! Much of the original furniture is intact, and the gnarled lodgepole pine details posts and beams make this such a treasure. The fire is usually burning, the gigantic clock ticking and activity abounds. Old Faithful Inn was nearly lost in the catastrophic fires of 1988, but the park has come back in all of it glory, and Old Faithful Inn remains what many see as the first and finest great lodge in a national park.

MY  TIPS FOR OLD FAITHFUL INN:

• Check in and make sure your dinner reservation is set. (It's best to book these when you make your room reservation.) 
• If you haven't seen Old Faithful do its thing yet, climb the stairway to the upper mezzanine and head for the terrace over the porte cochere. This is THE best vantage point from which to watch the fun.
• Get up early, go get a cup of coffee at the mezzanine espresso bar, take it out over the terrace and watch Old Faithful blow in near solitude. (You can't see this too many times.)
• Do not miss the docent tour of the Inn.
• Bring ear plugs and a flashlight, particularly if you are staying in the "old house."
• The Inn is closed in the winter, Old Faithful Snow Lodge is open year round. If you're not interested in staying at a historic lodge, Snow Lodge (right next door) is a good alternative.
• Read more about the history and architecture of Old Faithful Inn in Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002 edition). A bonus: fabulous color photography and historic black and white images, too.

 LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL                                                                              

Lake Hotel is as elegant as Old Faithful Inn is rustic. Funny thing is, Robert Reamer is responsible for both done within a few years of each other. Reamer began transforming the original, plain-Jane 1889 hotel beginning in 1903 changing the exterior from bland to beautiful. And while there is a frenzy of activity at Old Faithful, Lake Hotel emotes a sort of calm. Instead of the hourly blast of a geyser, there is the lapping waters along the shore of Yellowstone Lake, the largest high elevation lake in North America. This could be my favorite lodge location within the park. We were there in June (after Grand Teton National Park), and the wildlife sightings were amazing including a grey wolf and a black bear with her cubs. People are so intent on seeing wildlife, that the rangers call the traffic jams, bear jams.
Back to the hotel: the interior was remodeled in the 1980s and plans are afoot for another go over. The guest rooms are a bit tired, but the dining room and huge solarium (a pianist plays each evening) are lovely and sparkling clean. Reamer also changed most of the interior to match the Colonial Revival exterior, but an Arts & Crafts-inspired fireplace and seating area on the first floor feature matte glazed Batchelder tiles and Leimert furniture.
 It's easy to get a bit lost finding your room, since there were various additions and airy lounges suddenly appear where the building was expanded. There are charming cottages behind the hotel, and I would try to nab one.

MY TIPS FOR LAKE HOTEL:

• As with Old Faithful, make your dinner reservations when you make your room reservations. Try the cafeteria at Lake Lodge down the road for a change of pace.
• Ask for a lake view room or stay in one of the darling cottages.
• There's a small snack room: note the original wicker furniture.
• Take a tour in one of the White Motor Company Yellowstone buses.
• Go out on the lake via tour or boat rental.
• This is a great base to see the east central section of the park. Fishing bridge and Yellowstone River and the Lower Fall of the Grand Canyon are close by.

OTHER LODGE OPTIONS I HAVE TRIED:

Lake Lodge and Cabins is a fantastic rustic lodge (also designed by Reamer) down the road from Lake Hotel. You get the best lake view from their dining room. The great hall is inviting and a typically rustic, wild western affair. There are historic Pioneer cabins and newer Western cabins. Room configuration varies from doubles, triples and quads. I like the restored (only some) Pioneer cabins. These are a good value.
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins compound is five miles from the north Gardiner entrance to the park. This is where the original Army Post was and many of those buildings still stand. The four-story hotel is an odd configuration, but the rooms are spacious and comfortable although the hallways are very dark. The dining room and snack bar are in a separate building. The geology around the hotel is amazing (as are the old fort buildings), but a stay here is for folks who are spending a good amount of time at the park. I have not stayed at the cabins.

The two exterior photos are copyright by Fred Pflughoft and published in Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002).

TRAVEL PACKAGES:

I love to plan my own trips, but many people don't have the time or interest. That means you are in luck. Xanterra Parks & Resorts has put together a bunch of packages that take the trip planning out of the pleasure of seeing America's first national park. Check out my YELLOWSTONE TRAVEL PACKAGE POST.

YELLOWSTONE TRAVEL PACKAGES ANNOUNCED

XANTERRA'S SUMMER SPECIALS ANNOUNCED

I find that half the fun of a national park trip is in the planning, but many travelers don't agree. And for me the adventure is seeing if my plan worked! There are lots of national park service programs at Yellowstone that are free, and if you want to do that, check out the NPS website, http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm where you can download a 2010 Trip Planner or click on your interest (hiking, fishing, etc..)

But if you want the planning done, the following may fill the bill. 

My disclaimer: I have not taken these tours, but I am familiar with the activities and locations. Make sure to ask how many will be in the tour with you, or if they can be done for just your group. This is a massive park (2.2 million acres), so tours would help with the logistics.

So, here you go:

Yellowstone concessioner Xanterra Parks & Resorts will offer a series of 11 multi-day vacation packages this summer. All packages include between four and six nights of lodging, in-park transportation, a variety of adventures and activities and a driver/guide. Several of the adventures include three meals a day for each person, and the remaining adventures include breakfast and lunch each day plus dinner one evening.

The lineup includes three Summer Adventure Packages, four- or five-night vacations featuring driver/guides from Xanterra. The driver/guides have completed intensive training and share extensive information and stories about the park’s colorful human history, geology and wildlife with program participants. The guides enhance the visitor experience as they provide interpretive information as they drive through the park. Guides also help with other logistics to ensure the comfort of all participants.

One of the three all-inclusive Summer Adventure packages is the Total Yellowstone Package. This five-night vacation includes lodging at three different hotels; breakfast, lunch and dinner each day; in-park transportation; Scenic cruise on Yellowstone Lake; choice of a horseback or stagecoach ride; and daily baggage handling. Each day of the vacation has a different theme. For example, the first day is “Great Geysers.” Participants walk the Upper Geyser Basin, take a walking tour of the Old Faithful Inn and explore the area. Another day is “Critters and Cowboys.” Guests participate in a morning wildlife watching excursion to Lamar Valley, known as the American Serengeti because of the abundance of wildlife. During the afternoon guests participate in their Western activity of choice at Roosevelt Lodge. For the complete Check out the Yellowstone Adventure Package itinerary. The Total Yellowstone package is priced at $1,139 per person double occupancy and $1,576 per person single occupancy.  The rate does not include taxes, gratuities or utility fee.

The Classic Yellowstone Adventure Package is also a good choice for travelers who want to pack a lot into their vacation. This five-day, four-night itinerary includes many of the park’s classic experiences such as wildlife watching in Lamar Valley; the Roosevelt Cookout, a family-pleasing Western adventure with fun transportation, food and entertainment; a scenic cruise of Yellowstone Lake; and a guided walking tour of the Upper Geyser Basin. The package also includes breakfast, lunch and dinner each day; accommodations in four different park lodges; all baggage handling; and a driver/guide with extensive knowledge of the human history, geology and wildlife of the park. The Classic Yellowstone Summer Adventure package is priced at $1,199 per person double occupancy and $1,513 per person single occupancy. Taxes, utility fees and gratuities are not included.


For more information about in park accommodations, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone visit www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges or call toll-free (1) 866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375) or (1) 307-344-7311.

YELLOWSTONE ASSOCIATION INSTITUTE: In addition to Summer Adventure Packages Xanterra also offers eight Lodging Camp Learning programs. Offered in partnership with the non-profit Yellowstone Association Institute (YAI), these programs include lodging, in-park transportation, all breakfasts and lunches, one dinner per person and expert instruction provided by a Yellowstone Association Institute naturalist guide. Xanterra and YAI have created Lodging Camp Learning programs for groups with specific interests. Programs include “Yellowstone for Families,” “Trails through Yellowstone,” “Old Times on the Grand Tour” and “Spring Wolf and Bear Discovery.” 


In addition, the YAI has other summer programs. Their new facility (pictured) just outside of Gardiner offers a base for families and groups on Yellowstone vacations.


 At this point in the year lodging in Yellowstone can be hard to find because most facilities are already booked for the summer season. However because they’re new, the Institute’s educational packages still have dates available at rates starting at $90 per person per day.  

Summer and fall packages available now include:

Yellowstone Sampler: Spend four days seeing the best of Yellowstone. Learn about Yellowstone’s colorful history, abundant wildlife, and active volcano while visiting most of the major park highlights including Mammoth Hot Springs, Lamar Valley, Old Faithful, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. One flat package rate includes 3 days of activities and 5 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,485, 6-12 people $3,950, 13-24 people $7,900.

Wildlife Adventure: Learn about Yellowstone’s bears, wolves, and other animals during driving tours and short hikes in various wildlife hotspots. Locate and observe animals using high-power scopes, and understand their behavior, ecology, and management. Take advantage of seasonal wildlife watching opportunities from baby bison in the spring to bugling elk in the fall. One flat package rate includes 3 days of wildlife watching and 4 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,285, 6-12 people $3,550, 13-24 people $7,100.

Happy Trails: Venture off the beaten path with interpretive hikes throughout the park designed to showcase the best of Yellowstone’s backcountry. Hikers can learn about wolves, bears, elk and more, get up close and personal with the supervolcano, and be a part of the park’s colorful history on carefully chosen hikes in the northern range, Old Faithful, and Mammoth Hot Springs areas. One flat package rate includes 3 days hiking and 5 nights lodging 1-5 people $2,485, 6-12 people $3,950, 13-24 people $7,900.

For more information, see package information on their website  Yellowstone Association Institute Private Tours.

Contact information for YAI:

Angela Stewart 406-848-2400 or registrar@yellowstoneassociation.org.

For more information about in park accommodations, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone visit www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges or call toll-free (1) 866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375) or (1) 307-344-7311.


From the Lodge Lady:
To read and see more about these national park lodges, check out my post Yellowstone's Great Lodges and Great Lodges of the National Parks (2002) for Old Faithful Inn and Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two for Lake Yellowstone Hotel