A Chance Encounter in Talladega, Alabama

On this Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, 2019, I thought
I would share this story I wrote about a trip we took in 2008. 

The B and B seeped with southern charm if Talladega, Alabama, did not. 

Three of us had decided to take a portion of the National Park Service’s new civil rights road trip called “We Shall Overcome: Historic Places of the Civil Rights Movement”. It was 2008, and we had wrapped up four days in New Orleans attending the annual Jazz and Heritage Festival before we headed to Mobile then through Alabama. We stayed in Monroeville where novelist Harper Lee grew up, had our introduction to supper of “meat and three sides,” and slept at a friend’s family farm. Then it was on to Selma and Montgomery. Our trip would continue to Birmingham and Memphis, and we would eventually slip into Nashville for more music.

In Selma, we walked in the footsteps of the Freedom Marchers who in 1965 took their lives in their hands as they crossed the Edmund Pettus Bridge heading to Montgomery protesting the murder of Jimmie Lee Jackson and voting rights. That first attempt at crossing the bridge on March 7, 1965 would come to be called Bloody Sunday. On March 21, 3,200 protesters peacefully began the journey; three days later they arrived in Montgomery now numbering 25,000.

We wandered through Selma’s partially boarded up downtown where we talked to an elderly Black man who took us through the storefront Black History Museum and recounted his life in Selma especially the laws meant to keep African Americans from voting. A few blocks away, I stopped to ask a man about the restoration he was doing on a historic building. Wondering what we were doing in Selma and brightening up when we mentioned the civil rights tour, he said he was restoring the building in anticipation of the tourists taking the tour. As he hung from the scaffolding, he told me he had met Dr. King as a young boy; he paused, and said he was the son of former Mayor Joe Smitherman. Mayor Smitherman, who had been elected six months prior to the marches, considered himself a moderate although at the time he believed in segregation. (He once referred to Martin Luther King as Martin Luther “Coon“ in a TV interview and later said it was a slip of the tongue.) Smitherman served as mayor until 2000 when an African America candidate defeated him. His son told us not to believe everything we heard at the Black History Museum. We moved on.

We found the marker where a group of white thugs attacked three Unitarian ministers who had come for the first march, one died three days later. We stayed at a historic hotel at the foot of the bridge and went to a restaurant in a basement by the slave auction blocks; the massive door and chains were still there along with pizza and beer. Selma is like that.

Recent history can bring you to your knees, but it was not until our overnight in Talladega, home of Talladega College and the famed speedway, that we shared breakfast with some remarkable people. As the three of us, all white, sat at the table with four black couples, the questions began:

“What brings you three to Talladega?” we were asked.

“Well,” I began only slightly uncomfortable, “We are on the National Park Service’s new civil rights road tour. We were in Selma then Montgomery and Birmingham.” We shared how overcome we were with the history and the scenes we encountered. We had sat in Dr. King’s chair by the pulpit at his church in Montgomery, and climbed the steps of the Alabama Capitol. It was there that Dr. King addressed a crowd of 25,000 at the end of the grueling march. We told them about Selma and walking across the bridge and Montgomery and the capitol steps and the nearly all-white choirs singing hymns and patriotic songs. We had arrived on the National Day of Prayer that made the entire experience almost surreal. They nodded, and smiled.

There was a pause: “I was four people behind Dr. King on that march,” one of the women quietly added. “And in Montgomery, why I felt so sorry for those National Guard boys standing on the capitol roof,” she continued. “Why it was so hot and they looked scared to death. One of those boys just dropped his gun and passed out from the heat,” she continued with a tsk.

The Alabama capitol on the National Day
 of Prayer
in 2008. Also, where
National Guard troops stood
on the roof in 1965.

She told us that the marchers had nowhere to stay once in Montgomery. The city fathers had all of the electricity and water turned off at the few Colored Only motels, so they found refuge in homes or churches.

For me, Montgomery was what I can only describe as one of the meanest cities I had ever visited in America. Even in the heat of May the vibe was cold as ice. Yet, the people who had arrived there after a 54- mile march in 1965 with racists taunting them, and armed soldiers and vicious sheriffs escorting them, talked over breakfast that morning like that march was an everyday occurrence. In many ways it probably was.

Our B and B table mates were all there for their Talladega College 50^threunion. Founded in 1867 by two former slaves from Talladega and a group of new freemen in Mobile, Alabama, it has served the Black community for decades. For us, it served as a reminder of how far our country has come and how very very far it has to go.

I wish I had kept in touch. I wish they were my long -time friends, not simply a chance encounter. I wish I had spent days and weeks listening to them recount history. I wish I had been with them when Barack Obama became president. 

Instead, I am grateful for a chance encounter in Talladega, Alabama. 

I wrote this for a contest my friend and travel writer, Don George, sponsored called Encounters. I didn’t win or get a mention, but it gave me a chance to write about a remarkable trip Jerry, Don DeMoss and I took.

For those interested in this particular history of our country, I suggest the following:

 https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/civilrights/

Southern Comfort Tour: Charleston, Beaufort and Savannah

You'll not find a great lodge or a national park in this post, but a trip to the "low country" this spring was such an unexpected vacation, that I thought I'd share a few travel tips. Tip #1, printout Road Trip: Low Country, South Carolina and Georgia to use as a base: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/road-trips/low-country-south-carolina-georgia-road-trip/
#2 I also bought Jim Morekis Charleston and Savannah guide book published by Moon. The walking tours alone make it worth the purchase.
#3 We only rented a car between Charleston and Savannah, but it is a short trip, and cars are not needed in either Charleston or Savannah.

1) FLAG WAVING. With the exception of Fort Sumter National Monument, where the first shot of the Civil War was fired, nary a confederate flag was seen. I did see a confederate flag buckle on a young guy with a "Proud to be Made in America" t-shirt. Happy to see where he was conceived. Important information. Kind of explained the belt buckle.

Flags waving at Fort Sumter National Monument

2) FOOD. While the traditional southern country cooking with plenty of grits, fried chicken and greens could be enjoyed (meat and two sides),

Meat and sides

the sophistication of the "new" locavore cuisine was impressive. Delicious. Creative. Fun. And definitely Young.
Charleston: Looking for some raw oysters, we ended up where everyone and their brother ends up at 167 Raw. Orders were backed up, but we were entertained by the chefs in the tiny kitchen (not where they shuck the oysters). We ended up with oysters for dessert after our entree. It could be a requirement to wear a full beard to work there. Guys only. Magnolia's elegant atmosphere, great service and creative cuisine puts it at the top of travelers' lists...and ours. Our big discovery was Sorgham and Salt in the University of Charleston district that opened in February. (You can walk everywhere.) Just go. You will not regret it especially if you want to get out of the historic district and hang with the hipsters. It's small plates and unusual combinations, but if there might be one too many ingrediants in some dishes, they get an A-plus for effort and execution. We enjoyed breakfast at the super popular Hominy Grill. Remember their motto: grits are good for you.

Dessert at Sorgham and Salt

Beaufort: The draw of the variety of restaurants fronting the waterfront with its gorgeous walkways lined with porch swings is hard to miss. We enjoyed Plum's with breakfast at our B and B, Rhett House Inn. (More on this terrific stop later.)
Savannah: We started each evening with Happy Hour at The Grey a converted 1938 Art Deco, Greyhound bus station on MLK Blvd. Oysters half price along with some bubbly wine and a couple of beers although most of the youngish crowd were having cocktails, of course. The restoration of the station is brilliant with lunch counters converted to both a cocktail and eating bar. The menu was exceptional. We lined up for family style dining at Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room tucked in a historic house on Jones Street. The company (you sit an community tables) 15 side dishes and three entrees plus dessert made for a fun time! Lunch line forms at 11, but we got there at 1:30 and only waited about 15 minutes to be seated. Hours: 11am-2pm, closed in January. President Obama was there for the chicken...sadly, not when we were there.
3) SEE AND BE SEEN. Part of the south is the pace. Simply put, slow down.
Charleston: There were absolutely swarms of tourists, but then, I am one. We arrived on the final day of the annual Home and Garden tour. I bought tickets ahead of time and we arrived promptly, lined up with our docent, Sarah, and were off. Not until we completed the lovely tour did I figure out that I had signed up for the wrong historic tour through the wrong historical society (there are many). Oh, well. We took a self-guided one on our own and found it just swell.
Waterfront Park: Check. Great walking with tons of tourists and probably the place for bachelorette parties. Evening strolls are the best.
Circular Congregations Church. The city is awash with churches, but we happened upon an event one evening at this church that was founded for "dissenters" (meaning anyone not Anglican). A gospel performance in what was once called White Meeting House brought out a small but pretty sweet crowd to listen to a family sing. There wasn't a dry eye in the place at the end when the singers went into the audience and sang, "We are in this place together." Meaning, I believe, we are all in these troubled times together.
French Huguenots. Never heard of them, but now I have. Apparently, Carolina didn't care what church or religion you adhered to as long as you pledged your allegiance to the British crown. These French folks were basically driven out of France by the Catholics and settled here in 1690. They still have daily services in French at the church on Queen Street.
Beaufort:

They even preserve the trees in Beaufort.

The place to see is the entire Historic District, the waterfront and a spot on a swing or the end of every road where the City of Beaufort preserved the view. Impressive. Oh, and the trees: if a limb of a gigantic oak hangs low instead of hacking it off, the city places a warning of Low Clearance on the limb. Most cities would just cut it off. They even preserve the trees in the Historic District!

The cottage at Penn Center where Dr. King stayed.

Penn Center: Penn School National Historic Landmark District: There are dozens of side trips in the low country between Charleston and Savannah, but this is a must stop. In 1862, a group of abolitionist Quakers from Philadelphia came during the Union occupation and joined forces with Charlotte Forten, an African American educator, to form a school for the children of freed slaves. It is a humble group of buildings, many built by the students, who were educated here. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. found it a safe haven during the Civil Rights era. Not only was it a place for planning, but Dr. King wrote his "I Have a Dream" speech here among the live oaks.
Savannah: The city is on the river, but while it's cleaned up its act, it's no place to hang out. They have trolley and carriage and Segway tours along with riverboat cruises. I would skip them all and just walk. Get a map and go to every town square you can fit into your visit. The city has a north and south historic district with some unfortunate urban renewal in the downtown core. Don't miss Forsyth Park! Again, loads of churches but the not to be missed is the First African Baptist Church on Franklin Square. This is the oldest black congregation in North America dating to 1777. An another unexpected monument is the Haitian Monument in the center of the square for the 750 Haitian volunteers who fought for American independence.

One beautiful square after another in Savannah.

LODGING: Okay, so here is some "lodge" info.
Charleston: Stay in one of the many historic Bed and Breakfasts if you can get a room. We got a Vacation Rental that was terrible. I don't like them anyway. Be prepared: Everything is expensive.
Beaufort: I highly recommend The Rhett House Inn in Beaufort's incredible historic district. If it's good enough for Barbra Streisand, I guess it's good enough for us. We loved everything about this place from the owner, the big porch, the location, the cocktails or wine, cheese and breakfast.

The Rhett House Inn, Beaufort.

Savannah: The city is known for paying a lot and not getting much in return. But, again, I would stay at a Bed and Breakfast. We opted for the good ole Hampton Inn on Martin Luther King Blvd. Not the one down by the river. It worked out just fine.

New Canyon Lodges open in Yellowstone National Park

FUTURE GREAT LODGES

I had always written off Canyon Village as an overnight destination while visiting Yellowstone until this summer. We were hoping that the new lodges would be ready for our July Nana & Papa Camp, but they were still under construction. Instead, we stayed at Dunraven Lodge at Canyon Village and while it's not one of the historic great lodges I usually prefer, it was very  nice. I can only imagine how lovely the lodges in the redevelopment project must be!

Two of three new lodges opened August 1 and the third is slated to open August 22. There are two more that will open the summer of 2016. Canyon Village may not have the spectacular setting of Old Faithful Inn, Mammoth Hot Springs or Lake Yellowstone Hotel, but tucked in a forest it is so centrally located that anywhere in the park is at your fingertips. It also offers plenty of amenities including two restaurants.

But what is cool about the new Canyon lodges (offering 409 new rooms) is the innovative approach to the development. Gone are the rundown Frontier Cabins and in their place architecturally lovely lodges all built with sustainability in mind.

I just got a press release that quickly outlines specific steps taken by the concessionaire, Xanterra in planning and building the new lodges. Keep in mind, new overnight lodging in national parks is rare, so it's pretty exciting that they seem to be doing it right!

One of the new Canyon lodges under construction July 2015.

One day these could well be historic Great Lodges of the National Parks!

• Hiring a builder located within 500 miles of Canyon Lodge.
• Sourcing many raw materials for assembly and finishing within 500 miles of Canyon Lodge whenever possible.
• Reducing light pollution.
• Recycling and reusing materials generated during demolition.
• Using some retired Frontier cabins for structural firefighting training.
• Using a modular building process. Since the industrial building process is closely controlled and efficient, materials are protected from weather damage and processed to industrial specifications. This step reduces waste typically associated with on-site builds.
• Installing low-emitting, recycled content carpet.
• Using Marmoleum flooring comprised of all-natural rapidly renewable materials.
• Installing high-energy efficient windows featuring low emissions.
• Constructing trim, wainscoting, coat hangers and other wood products from regional beetle-kill pine.
• Installing automated "smart switches" in rooms for reduced energy usage.
• Installing low-flow fixtures and toilets.
• Installing plumbing fixtures featuring recycled content.
• Installing recycled content countertops, window sills and back splashes fabricated from fly ash (a byproduct of coal burning) and ground recycled glass (some of it sourced from the park).

Martel Construction of Bozeman, Mont. is the general contractor for this job. Barker Rinker Seacat Architecture of Denver is the architect. The modular components that ultimately became the lodges were built by Guerdon Enterprises, LLC of Boise, Idaho.

Reservations for Canyon Lodge & Cabins as well as for eight other lodges in the park can be made by visiting www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges.com or by calling 1-307-344-7311 or toll free 1-866-GEYSERLAND (1-866-439-7375).

RANDOM THOUGHTS ON TRAVELING THROUGH YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

WHAT I REMEMBER AND WHAT NOT TO FORGET

• The park is a miracle. It is huge with 2.2 millions acres of things to marvel at---it just doesn’t stop. While I thought the geothermal wonders were just that, our four grandkids mostly wanted to see the wild life. As five-year-old Kai said after an hour hike through Mammoth Hot Springs: “Guys, we came to enjoy the wild life, not hike.”   
• Most folks rarely venture off the beaten path into the backcountry. We didn’t with the exception of a hike into Trout Lake outside of Silver Gate to fish and Pleasant Valley for our Chuck Wagon dinner. Why? Because we had four kids and there are lots of bears and also not-so-friendly Bison. And we forgot our bear spray.

Enough of this hiking

•      The crowds of tourists were just like us except from all over the world. All were amazed, generous with their tips, time and joy. The whole experience is contagious. That said, Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin is packed and the line-up for the eruption at Old Faithful can be a bit tedious. If you want more space, head to the Yellowstone Lake area.
•      I love Park Rangers. These folks are calm, well trained, knowledgeable to a fault and funny.  When they ask you to move back from the wild life---move. When they ask you to drive on past a Bear Jam, do so and find a place to park and walk back to the viewing site. When their presentation seems a bit long, just leave the group: no hard feelings here.
•       Motorhomes. I do not like them because their presence is so intrusive. So, I’ve said it. The slow, narrow and winding roads are simply not made for these things that usually pull a car. Anything bigger than those rented Cruise America RVs are just too much.
•      Do not miss the Lamar Valley and the Hayden Valley. We went through Hayden Valley three or four times and each tine saw something different. These two valleys were where we saw the most wild life. We love entering the park at the Northeast Gate out of Cooke City and Silver Gate. You drop into the expanse of the park with vast valleys, lumbering mountains and fewer cars. As for routes, take any of them and repeat anything you like and just pull off and hike around. The kids picked out spots that sounded like fun, and they always were. We loved Great Fountain Geyser, a much more intimate experience than Old Faithful.
•      Beartooth Pass. I mentioned it before, but if you go through Red Lodge to Cooke City, MT, on Highway 212 you will NOT be disappointed. Also, the line at the entrance gate is usually pretty darn short.
•      Picnic. We found lovely and sometimes secluded picnic spots along tributaries of the big Yellowstone River where the kids could wade and we could just hang out. Our favorite was the Nez Perce Ford. You need hang out time.

Off of the Yellowstone River at Nez Perce Ford

•       Xanterra. This is the park concessionaire for the lodges, hotels and most of the restaurants. They just signed a 20-year contract with the National Park Service at Yellowstone. Again, the staff was always helpful whether as servers, desk clerks, or cleaning personnel. Rooms at each lodge we stayed at (Mammoth Hot Spring Hotel, Canyon’s Dunraven Lodge and Lake Hotel’s Sandpiper Annex) were all comfortable, clean, roomy and most updated. We never saw a “tip” jar or a cranky employee, and we had four kids with us. We left things in rooms twice, and when we returned, they were labeled and waiting for us at the front desk. It is hard to imagine such a well-run operation especially considering most of the park and      these facilities are only open for the summer season.

Something for everyone at Lake Lodge Cafeteria

•       Restaurants. While you should probably have a big dinner at Lake Hotel or Old Faithful Inn dining room, we found the Lake Lodge Cafeteria and the “Grills” at Mammoth and Canyon much more manageable for a family.
•      The Chuck Wagon dinner at Roosevelt Lodge was not only great food (unlimited which was perfect for our almost 14-year-old grandson), but also just plain fun. Make reservations and enjoy!
•         There is rarely if ever Wi-Fi in the Park. A blessing in many respects. Cell coverage is available at all lodge/visitor areas and coverage goes in and out.

THINGS NOT TO FORGET

   1) Binoculars. We had one expensive pair and two REI ones for kids. All were good. We also had a telephoto lens on one camera. Cellphone cameras make it fun for everyone.

Binocular and telephoto lens

• 2) A small backpack. Yes, we forgot ours.
  3)   First aid kit with the basics including Band-Aids and larger dressings, Neosporin, Benadryl, antiseptic wipes, aspirin or Tylenol, something for bug bites
  4)   Sunscreen, insect repellant and Chap stick
  5)   Water bottles for each person. There are water refill stations at most General Stores and hotels. Due to the altitude and sometimes heat, you need LOTS of water.
  6)   Picnic essentials, a small cooler and food. The General Store selection is very limited, so pack what you can.
  7)   Warm jackets. Each kiddo had a down jacket and they wore them every day. I like wearing something with big pockets instead of carrying a backpack. Good thing since we forgot our small day pack. And small packable rain jackets could come in handy.
  8)   Hiking boots. Again, we wore ours everyday. Even the paths can be slippery.
  9)   Maps and general information books. I printed this all out on line before we left, but what we used the most was the map we got at the park entrance. Ask for extras since they fall apart after a few days of use.
  10)                 A sense of adventure along with a sense of humor. And everyone and everything packed in the car that you came with.

Check: one Papa and four grandkids

You can find just about everything you need at:

www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com

Yellowstone to Grand Teton

Mammoth Hot Springs, Photo by Maya

You Say Geothermal, We Say Geysers

Friday was the day of geysers and Old Faithful Inn and the incredible Norris Basin chock full of spewing geysers, pastel colored mud pots bubbling and spurting and generally giving the grandkids a run for their money. There are over 10,000 geothermal features and 300 active geysers in Yellowstone, and we watched Old Faithful erupt twice along with about a thousand other tourists.

 

Old Faithful

Great Fountain Geyser and Jazz

The park is so full of surprises and our stop at Great Fountain Geyser was one of them. This huge mud pot geyser spewed water and steam with regular eruptions right in front of us. Kai had on his headphones and was listening to Kid Jazz as all of this was going on. “Isn’t Uncle Mark a jazz guy?” he asked when explaining how the music went with the eruptions. He’s five.

Dumb and Dumber

And those weren’t our grandkids or their grandparents.

OK, the geologic wonders and wildlife sightings (female elk and bison---five Grizzly bears) were just part of the Wonderland of the park. Yet, the big laugh of Friday was at Gibbon Falls trail. The pathway was lined with a rock wall along the cliff with the churning river and falls below, when Maya pointed out two teenage (or college age) boys who had jumped over the rock wall and acting like just plain idiots. Much to the embarrassment of Jackson, Nana walked up to the wall and shouted at them: “Hey, Dumb and Dumber, get over this wall right now. I am getting a Ranger and you will be out of this park!” Amazingly, they hopped back over the wall and sulked away. As Jackson said, how embarrassing to have a grandma yell at you. Maya and Audrey did Nana/Dumb/Dumber reenactments all afternoon.

Mammoth Hot Springs

What is amazing about the park is the diversity. (Seriously, I just wrote that sentence.) We passed over the Continental Divide and everything changed. Fire scorched forests now dense with new growth, massive granite boulder fields, meandering rivers and creeks.

It is estimated that there are about 24% more visitors to the park this year, and we believe it especially in the Upper Geyser Basin around Old Faithful.

We headed to Madison then Norris Basin and onto Mammoth Hot Springs. While I recall this as being crowded in the past,  our entrance at Mammoth was smooth. (Maybe it was the seven miles of unpaved road now under construction.) We had two rooms in the original Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, sans private bathrooms (there are sinks in each room and shower/bathrooms across the hall). I would recommend this spot to anyone especially folks with kids.

(I will do a full roundup of lodges and hotels at the end of the trip.)

Chuck wagons rolling to dinner, Photo by Maya

Cowboy Dinner

Saturday’s Roosevelt Chuck Wagon dinner was our final planned event in Yellowstone. Rain was drizzling as we got into the car for an hour drive to Roosevelt Corrals, but as we piled into Wagon #4, the sun came out and the long process of dusk began. We chugged along behind Zach and Zeb (huge Belgium horses) with our guide, Alex, giving a commentary. Dinner: Sixteen ounce steaks and all the trimmings plus cowboy coffee and peach cobbler. Two veggie burgers were preordered for our veggies, and shock of shock, Kai ate his!!!

Hayden Valley and How Many Grizzly Can You Count?

On Sunday, we did a few diversions, but those brought us face to face with a gigantic Bison on the road to Madison then Grizzly bears.  Allen Point: Two big bears staking out an elk killed by a wolf on Saturday. Scarface, the oldest bear in Yellowstone, was calling this kill his own with another Grizzly in waiting with the wolf just sitting around for what might be dessert. (I’m going with the Scarface story because an old timer and bear watcher told me. No documentation required.)

Another Grizzly sauntering along the road made three Grizzly and one wolf in one morning!

 

Clockwise: wolf (white), Grizzly, Bison, Scarface over the carcass. Photo by Maya

Photographer Sighting

A highlight for me was running into Fred Plughoft at the Fishing Bridge General Store where he was signing books. Fred and David Morris were the best couple of photographers any writer could work with. Check out his books. Gorgeous.

Grand Teton Finale

 

GRand Teton here we come!

We crossed over into Grand Teton National Park, checked out Jackson Lake Lodge, caught a garter snake, walked to Lunch Box Hill and gazed at the range. We sat on the log where Jerry took my “author” photo in 2007.

 

Audrey, Jackson, Kai, Nana and Maya at Lunch Tree Hill.

Somewhere out there in the park behind us, Michael asked Karen to be his wife.

There would be no Nana & Papa Camp without our wonderful children, and the spouses they fell in love with and the four treasures they created.

So thank you Melissa, Sanjay, Michael and Karen. We love you all!